Croatia 2019

I spent a wonderful Sunday with family that culminated at a delightful lunch in the suburbs for nine of us—Harald, my three cousins’ father treated. With soon to be 94 years old, he’s doing wonderfully. Before dinner, however, Peter, Susanne and I visited the Ernst Fuchs Museum at the Otto Wagner Villa—amazing art is in understatement. Fuchs (1930 –2015) was an Austrian painter, draftsman, printmaker, sculptor, architect, stage designer, composer, poet, singer and one of the founders of the Vienna School of Fantastic Realism. In 1972, he acquired the neglected Otto Wagner Villa in Hütteldorf (just outside Vienna) which he restored and transformed into a magnificent showpiece. The villa was inaugurated as the Ernst Fuchs Museum in 1988. I was full of oohs and aahs.

After lunch, Harald and I went to Wolfgang and Maria’s house for desert and chit chatting.

Here are some memories from today: one of Ernst Fuchs’ creations; in front of the museum; entrance to the museum; lunch together; back to the museum (Otto Wagner Villa); the other end of the lunch table; and finally, Harald enjoying desert while Kurt and Wolfgang look on; (Kathi, Resi, und Gregor sind auch dabei).

Since the last blog, it’s been a lovely time visiting my cousin Martina in Graz and my other cousin Susanne and Peter at their country home in Kreuzberg, about an hour south of Vienna, but also saying farewell to Martina soon after having a scrumptious Styrian lunch in Langenwang. After lunch all of us drove a short distance to Krieglach where the Peter Rosegger Museum is located. So who is Rosegger (1843-1918)? Well, quite honestly, I wasn’t familiar with him at all, even though I should have been after studying German literature. Above all,  he was an author but painted as well. Well ahead of his time, he believed in a tolerant church and party-less politics. He also advocated conservation and preservation of nature.

Here are some memorable pictures (not necessarily in order): first photo at the Rosegger Museum (Peter, Martina, Kurt); next, Peter and Susanne at their summer house; then, Peter next to the 1961 Steyr tractor, that some years ago we rode up the hill for a tour; then, Saturday taking a stroll in the drizzling rain; next to last, I’m standing on the Graben in the heart of Vienna with Julius Meinl in the background (Vienna’s deli in the heart of the city)—I had a hard time believing the large crowds visiting Vienna!!!; and lastly, on Saturday, the two sisters Martina and Susanne and Peter.

Today, Sunday, it’s off to a lunch gathering with as much of the family as we could muster (9 of us).

After an early start from Zagreb by train, went through some beautiful countryside and came to the Slovenian border of Dovnia. A squad of police boarded the train to check for illegals, a check that lasted about 15 minutes. Then we continued through nearly to the Austrian border and switched to a bus for the rest of the way on account of track maintenance.

When I arrived in Graz, Martina met me and one of the first orders of business was to change leftover Croatian money (kunas) into Euros. We drove to her house in St Oswald about 26 km from the train station. Martina had done some amazing home improvements starting with a covered car port and entry way that’s now more level. Her vegetable garden keeps her busy but rewards her with many just-in-time harvests.

Here are some pics: a fixer-upper still available along the way; typical countryside scene while traveling along the river before switching to bus;  Martina’s house with car port on  far  left, glass-house garden, and main house; lunch—all healthy things from fresh salad from the garden, and white asparagus and potatoes; and lastly, Martina with Sunny in front of the Glycine flowers that are stunningly beautiful.

Left Split at 8:33 AM by train and arrived at Croatia’s capital, Zagreb, at about 3:00 PM. Got settled as quickly as possible in a little apartment not far from the train station and hit the sightseeing trail a bit before 4:00. Being a holiday, the hustle and bustle of locals wasn’t there—it seems it was mainly tourists. Curiously, I noticed lots of Asian tourists (China and Hong Cong)—easy to spot and they’re extremely courteous. Although Zagreb lacks the historical flair of Split, their history goes back just as far—there’s just no Diocletian’s Palace to draw you in.

Here are some of my impressions, starting with two evening shots in Split from last night (the lighting gave it a special aura):

My quest followed the app called VisitACity— highly recommended: first was the Zagreb Cathedral and the sarcophagus behind the altar of Cardinal Stepinac who was tried under the communist regime and sentenced to 16 years, but only served 5 followed by house arrest; there’s a picture of the altar; then there’s St Mark’s with the tiled roof depicting the coat of arms of Zagreb (white castle on red background); then the stone gate entrance where people prayed before they entered the city; and finally, a statue of a serpent slayer amidst a bed of black tulips.

Spent a full day wandering around Split that included a walking tour where I was the only client—no problem getting questions answered. Overwhelmingly, the theme of the tour was how Diocletian’s Palace was the bedrock for Split for over 1700 years integrating over these years various architectural styles and cultures spanning the Romans, Croat, Venetian, Hungarian, Habsburg, you name it, all the while trying to repel the Ottoman influences. Just amazing the interlacing of it all, and it seems to be stable both physically and psychically.

I also focused on the sights and smells of the outdoor markets brimming with activity. The guide brought to my attention that I saw no flies in the fish market due to the slightly sulfurous odor in the water used to clean the stalls.

Here are some impressions: walking among the Palace structures one looks down on a platform used to sacrifice animals during the Roman era; then looking through the east entrance one can spot the bell tower addition made during the medieval era; the drawing gives a good impression of how it looked in 305 AD; and this kind of picture shows the integration of new with old.

And here are the markets, the second being the fly-less fish market.

Finished my walking yesterday in arriving in Bol (115 miles in all) and am in recovery mode until May 8th when I start walking again—pretty cushy! Took the bus/ferry combo and arrived on the mainland again at about 4:00 PM. Got settled into an apartment (the hostel I signed up for is out of business) for $30 a night—it’s very nice and modern and close to the city center.

My first evening out exploring the town and having dinner in the area Marjie/Mark recommended was amazing—picture taking saturation. The city center is built around the Roman emperor, Diocletian’s Palace that was readied for him in 305 AD. Every turn you make you feel obligated to take yet another picture—can’t post them all!

Here are my main impressions: first, the Temple of Jupiter was built sometime between 295 and 305, then converted to a Christian Baptistry in the sixth century; and on the sarcophagus as you enter you see one of the earliest sculptures of a Croatian King; next the Cathedral built in Middle Ages in Diocletian’s Palace, and further down a picture of the main altar as well as a picture of the entrance to the Cathedral from the main square; the other two photos show one of the many small streets winding through the Palace, and finally Restaurant Sperdun in the quarter recommend by Marjie and Mark (a family recommendation). The restaurant had a wait of over an hour when I finished—no wait when I started!

After taking a 9:00AM ferry to the island of Brač, I walked 16 miles (25.5 km) with a 1500 ft climb over about half of the distance. That’s the end of my Croatian walk: 115 miles. Super tired, but found enough energy to walk down the hill for a dinner and a little wine. Am actually posting this the next day because it turns out that it’s not easy to get to Split, back on the mainland. I wasn’t going to opt for a 6:30 AM catamaran and miss breakfast; so I’m now taking a bus at 1:00 PM across the island and then a ferry to Split.

Here are some impressions: leaving Maskara; walking right next to vineyards; lots of cyclists on the last part of walk; my first view of Bol—I was elated because with the late ferry start, I didn’t finish until nearly 5:00PM which made for a long day; beautiful restaurant and view in Bol; here’s what much of the uphill terrain looked like—very rocky.

Great day, although I feared for rain, only to be surprised by sunshine. Covered 12 miles (19 km) and am nearing the end of the road walking in Croatia.  Tomorrow I catch the ferry to the island of Brac (c with mark over it) and then walk 25 km and climb 1500 ft before descending to the coastal town of Bol from where I catch another ferry the following day to Split.

I was really impressed with the town of Tucepi (c with mark over it) in terms of all the action going on. Most of the riviera is still asleep but work is going on everywhere in preparation for the summer onslaught of tourists. It’s unbelievable how many signs you see advertising rooms and apartments (I’ve been renting the small apartmani).

Some pics for the day: the sign advertises the town of Tucepi; first view of Makarska; how I felt about the whole trip, just like the car getting a wash! And lastly, some of the “trail” actually getting down to the water as it did in Tucepi. Yes, LUCKY ME!

When I can actually pronounce the town I’m staying in, it may be time to come home—ha, ha! Best walking day by far, considering that nearly half was on a walking trail or small road next to the water. The 12 miles took me nearly 6 hours with lots of “smelling of roses.”

Here are my impressions: This breakfast was to die for—I finished all of it or it got packed for my lunch; I watched this young lady pick up the moth now on her sleeve—an incredible example of mimicry—just look at its spread wings that look like a monster; dates along the path;  and the next two showing the dedicated path I was on; finally, one of several stops to enjoy the riviera with a beer. Basically, it’s still much too early for their tourist season. You can see preparations everywhere as they get the places ready. None of the restaurants are open here in Živogošće, so I went to the grocery store and for $10 bought my next three meals!

Only 10 miles (16 km) climbing into the coastal hills should have been easier than it was—mainly spillover from too much yesterday. In the coastal hills there were lovely fresh-water lake settings, the kind you picture in Austria or Switzerland. The welcome sign to the Gradac Riviera stopped me in my tracks because it challenged me to enjoy the beachfront, by myself. So after getting settled in my Booking.com apartment, I headed down to the water to try my best at enjoying it. With a glass of wine in hand I leaned back and took it all in, even though it is a bit early in the tourist season.

My impressions: after a steep climb, I couldn’t resist rewarding myself with fresh-squeezed orange juice and an omelette (I was the only one in this bus-stop type restaurant); then my explanation as why the road was so empty (a parallel interstate route became available); one of several freshwater lake scenes; the Gradac Riviera pebbly beach (I like our sand better) and lastly, my genuine attempt to enjoy the Riviera with a glass of wine —it was very pretty!

After a 19-mile (31 km) trek up into the coastal range and down again, my biggest quandary: how do you tell the difference between reaching your limit and exceeding it (no, there was no winery down that road)??? It was a beautiful day and I did one of those two—not sure which. After a beer on the house where I’m staying, the young lady offered to take my backpack to my room and I never objected—that’s a sign I was totally exhausted!

After coming down from the coastal hills, the road skirted an area similar to the Oxnard Plain just filled with citrus groves. A funny thing though: there must have been 50 fruit stands all selling about the same thing: bags and bags of oranges and orange products—all clones. Yet, this is not orange season. I tried to get it out of them where these oranges came from. Finally, one came clean and told me these are last year’s crop stored in the basement! Such is life!

Some impressions: Day can’t go wrong when you start your first cup of coffee served in a Julius Meinl cup (from Vienna, of course); just let this picture sink in—a wine tasting drive-through—what else could it be??; This is what beat me up early on; the orange stand clones!

Today took me 14 miles (22.4 km) along the Croatian Coast to the Bosnia–Herzegovina (BH) town of Neum. How did that happen? Well, BH has access to the Adriatic Sea consisting of about 12 miles (20 km) and I just happened to pick my overnight stay here in BH. It’s hard to imagine the turmoil in this region after Yugoslavia broke up, so to speak after peace broke out in Germany in 1989. One by one, the Soviet countries sued for independence. But Yugoslavia had its special ethnic problems that finally ended in 1995 with the signing in Paris of the peace accords that were drafted in Dayton OH. The region appears fairly stable now and BH has applied for EU membership.

The day was super windy with dangerous gusts threatening to blow me into oncoming traffic—at several points I had to change to the other side. Tomorrow will be longer but calmer.

Stopped by this makeshift oyster processing platform and got the fellow to chuck 6 oysters that I devoured in no time—yummy!

Here are some impressions of the day: first, the fishermen working the oysters, second, a view of the wall over yesterday’s town of Ston, thirdly, my six oysters, and lastly, entering the town of Neum where I’m staying at a Booking.com apartment.

After 13 miles (21 km), I arrived at a marvelous tourist-laden town of Ston. Because of its flourishing salt-bed business and oyster farming (you can see the oyster farming in the pic of the bay) the city needed protection from invaders. In 1461, a 1200-meter wall was commissioned that one can see on entering the twin towns of Ston and Little Ston (Mali Ston). I tried to capture a bit of the wall.

Buses by the dozen drop off their passengers who then flood the eateries and gift shops. By sunset, I expect a sleepy little town.

Early in my walk, I came on a roadside grave (similar to the one in the picture) with a middle-aged man and two young ladies weeping over the burning candles. All were dressed in black. As he waved at me across the road, I stopped and briefly prayed with them, then waved and continued on. In that short time, I felt their grief and deeply bonded with them—total strangers that they were. When they drove off, they waved to me, and I to them. How remarkable this brief encounter was and how it touched me—it made me recall the most difficult duty I had while in the service back in Omaha of bringing the sad news to families of the loss of someone dear to them as the locally appointed Army casualty assistance officer.

Short day at only about 8 miles (13 km) but started out in panic mode because both reservations cancelled on me and I had to wing it. On arrival, the first place I asked wasn’t ready for the season yet—oh, oh, I thought. Second place and all went well—a restaurant with rooms upstairs. After getting settled, I walked to the Marina restaurant where I was told they had lamb—my Easter Dinner Celebration.

First pic of typical lagoon setting that’s a common sight along the way. They say Croatia has a thousand islands—of course counting every rock protruding out of the water. Second pic is view from my little hotel room, and third pic is my Easter Celebration. As Rose so aptly deduced: “Pretty scenery, great wines, delicious food, happy people. Life is good in Croatia.” Yeah, verily!

Fabulous first day walking about 14 miles north on the coast  starting from Dubrovnik with sunny weather in low 70s. Had to share the road with lots of vehicles, but  there was usually just enough shoulder for me. Saw no cyclists or other walkers and the road, although paralleling the coast, was usually along cliffs some 300 ft above the water.

I discovered why Dubrovnik was overflowing with tourists. On the north side of town I spotted two 5000-passenger cruise ships parked and buses still lined up. Hope they all enjoy it as much as I did—a fabulous experience and my hostel had a perfect location.

Treated myself to a scrumptious grilled fish lunch half way to celebrate the day. Afterwards, I hit upon a serene ‘91 war memorial in the shadow of a huge tree where I paid my respects. The hosts here at the AirB&B are so lovely and attentive. The host had served in that war for three years an illuminated it for me from his angle. The Bosnian/Herzegovina Army and Navy had Dubrovnik surrounded and were trying to starve them. The city had small boats trying to resupply it at night—he was involved with that operation.

My last day had two quests: (1) understand and feel the Croatian War of Independence and (2) do side-by-side wine tasting of the ancient Zinfandel (Krljanek) and their modern offspring Plavec Mali—success! The photojournalist exhibit on the wars that led to the Yugoslavian disintegration was marvelous and the wine tasting was a real treat, something not possible in the States—we’ll see! Here are a few pics of the day.

The before and after shot from the square just 50 yards from my hostel impressed me, but also some of the other war torn scenes.

And then there’s the coup of side-by-side old and new Zinfandel grapes—what a treat. This wine bar was the real treat

Sightseeing all day, starting with a 1+ hr walking tour with 10 other sightseers—all here in Old Town. How do you cull 31 pics to 3 or 4? Big scenes not my Julius Meinl coffee cup for breakfast that gave me a warm feeling of connectedness! My hostel, within two blocks of the first picture, is right in the center of Old Town that totally swarms with tourists—at mid afternoon I had to get away from it all, so I walked a mile uphill to rub shoulders so to speak with locals.

The shore here is very steep and full of cliffs that have their own character. A little harbor at the south end was busy with sightseeing boats full of tourists.

First partial day in Dubrovnik—beautiful, overflowing with tourists. The cruise ships don’t help any. Will take my first tour tomorrow morning. My hostel is in Old Town—inside the walls, in the middle of everything. These pics give my first impressions:

Had a good flight LAX to London, then walked 4.5 miles to the Hotel—best option to get some exercise after a long flight and avoid paying 20£ for a cab since the hotel had no pickup from the airport (only to the airport). It was a bit difficult over some stretches that had no shoulder!

It’s off to Croatia tomorrow morning with a British Air flight at 6:45am.

Just patiently waiting to board the plane in the picture (Norwegian Boeing 787) in about 20 minutes for a 7:30 PM departure to London, Gatwick Airport. Am staying overnight near the airport and catching a British Airways on Wednesday for Dubrovnik, Croatia. All’s well.