Via Francigena, 2025

Split this day into more manageable pieces and it turned out perfectly for walking: easy distance of 8+ mi even with some respectable hills, temp of high 70s, end-stretch of 2 miles were actually down hill, and I enjoyed a beer while waiting for the reception to open.

I’m staying at the Hotel Palazzo Renieri here and what a surprise at how modern it is—wow. AND the Internet is super fast! Can’t wait to check out their breakfast.

The trail had some really rugged parts and even had two stream crossings that I took very carefully (my balance is very poor, but I manage with the poles). At about midway, a welcome rest spot appeared with shaded tables and chairs and snacks/ drinks available. The host offered us local figs and a peeled fruit the size of a kiwi with sweet flesh that had seeds similar to grape seeds. I found out that they’re prickly pears—I ate 4 of them—really yummy. These grow wild in CA, and I never had one! A friendly English couple provided company and even treated.

I rested this 5th day in San Gimignano with all its remaining medieval towers that were built by wealthy and noble families to show their immense wealth and power during this period. These "tower-houses" also served as fortified homes and a means of defense against rivals and attackers, with height being a direct symbol of a family's status.

It amazes me that a little town with only 7000 to 8,000 people can become such a tourist Mecca. I asked myself what I was actually seeing—it seems a stage with thousands of people visiting a place they felt they needed to visit. And because they’re here, it’s turning my simple stopover into a much richer experience.

The main church here is a so-called Collegiate Church, never becoming a cathedral, a bishop’s seat, but gaining significant importance. The defining feature is the college or chapter of clerics (canons) attached to it. Historically, Collegiate Churches served both religious duties and were associated with educational institutions like universities or colleges, especially after the Reformation.

Happy Labor Day! Today, day 4, was soooooo much easier—half the distance and fewer hills. I arrived at my destination a little after noon, definitely a hilltop, tourist town, checked into my fabulous hotel and began my 44-hr rest and maintenance phase (laundry, blogging, mail, you name it). So happy I planned the rest days.

Along the way it amazes me how the “trail” integrity is maintained as number one priority—it goes under churches and under your house (if your property lies on both sides of it). Their garbage bins are in five categories and pretty conveniently placed everywhere. And the vineyards and olive orchards kept me company—such delightful companions. I’m seeing more and more “pilgrims” along the way, maybe a couple dozen throughout the day. Am comfortably making reservations one day ahead.

Hardest day so far with all the ups and downs and many of the ups were very steep and just drained me of energy (no shade and temp at 80+ didn’t help). Ended up walking nearly 10 hours and for the last two miles, needed to rest every five to ten minutes—really pathetic, but I made it. Oh, and when I arrived at the Town Center, I was momentarily blocked by a policeman from going to the hotel only 20 meters away: Big Festival going on. (They’re called Palio Festivals, that involve traditional games competition among its four historic districts.) They didn’t have to do this for me!

Along the way (see the pics below), there was a metal 20-days to Rome marker, to indicate to pilgrims that they have 20 more days of walking! Then I ran into my first grape vines that have pretty much been all around me since. And the fountains (I think there were 3) were a savior: they helped cool me off by splashing over my head and adding to my water supply.

I saw Olive trees/ orchards planted near vineyards, a long tradition in Italy for multiple reasons, including their natural ability to act as windbreaks, protect against heat and frost, and provide shade for grapevines, which improves pollination and fruit development. It’s also known as companion planting.

I feel like a seasoned pilgrim after today’s 18 mi, some respectable hills along with 5 stamps in my pilgrim’s passport—love these hill-top towns at the end of the day when you’re already tired and find you have to climb another steep 500 ft to reach your destination. I didn’t set any records: started walking at about 8:00 am and arrived at my B&B at about 4:30 pm. And, I even took a few shortcuts from the official route to save my energy and stop at a grocery store. 

The gentle drizzle along with cloud cover much of the time made for a comfortable trek. On the other hand, my pants and sandals ended up muddy and I took care not to slip and fall in the mud. The trail consisted mostly of gravel covered with runoff clay.

Didn’t do much sightseeing. Had a great Tagliolini with black truffle for dinner at the Piccola Osteria del Tartufo restaurant (the Little Truffle Tavern) along with a glass of local Chianti. All the restaurants didn’t open for dinner until 7:00 pm. I sat a stone’s throw from the Church of St Domenico, easily recognizable by the unfinished facade—they’ve had since 1330 to complete it. (Pics include dinner and this church.)

My walk today served as my initiation to the Via Francigena. Got most of it in before it hit 80. The last mile or so challenged me and three other pilgrims behind me in that a huge tree fell across the trail, which for maybe a quarter of a mile had turned into a real dirt trail (whereas the first 10 miles were either sidewalks or country road shoulders). To get around it, I had to battle branches along with wild thorny runners: 20 minutes to get through 30 feet of it! In another tenth of a mile I rested by a hostel and met 3 fellow pilgrims (two from Ohio and one from the Czech Republic).

From a pilgrim’s standpoint, today’s destination of Altopascio (pop ~15K) revealed something quite fascinating. A little research tells me that the Order of Saint James of Altopascio (Italian: Ordine di San Giacomo d'Altopascio or Ordine dei Frati Ospitalieri di San Jacopo), also called the Knights of the Tau (Cavalieri del Tau) or Hospitallers of Saint James, was founded here at Altopascio at around 1070. It’s a military order, perhaps the earliest Christian institution to combine the protection and assistance of pilgrims, the staffing of hospitals, and a military wing.

My guess is that today’s church of San Iacopo in Altopascio (St James in Altopascio) is probably where the order was actually founded. The church’s history apparently changed in 1988, when the remains of an earlier worship building, dating from the late 11th century, were found. From these - which included part of the facade and apse - it can be deduced that the original temple was smaller in size than the one built in the second half of the 12th century. The beautiful crenellated bell tower can be dated accurately back to 1280. Wow!

Spent 1 1/2 days exploring Lucca, my springboard for the last third of the Fracigena. Steeped in history, Lucca is replete with middle-age churches that were built over its predecessors and still standing as proof of these awesome accomplishments. Such welcome sites in our modern dizzying world—their timelessness is so calming. It’s worth the price of admission! I’m ready for my first day tomorrow.

My last meal inside Lucca’s surrounding wall was aptly a late lunch on top of the wall almost a stone’s throw to my hotel (Hotel Rex), a cozy place five minutes from the train station. And I enjoyed lunch while pondering the Cathedral where I start my adventure tomorrow. 

Am counting Day 1, as my first day on  the Via Francigena, which will be Friday 8/29). Spent yesterday after arrival in Rome getting acclimated to the time change and the throngs of people. Stayed Antica Dimora Delle Cinque Lune, a small boutique hotel just a block away from the Tiber River from where I could see St Peter’s Basilica. I took a walk to Trevi Fountain, passing the Pantheon and a massive peaceful anti-Gaza protest on the way. This morning I’m completely caught up on sleep and energy and will continue take the train to Lucca.

Just testing my blog—thanks go out to Douglas  who is behind it all👍❤️. Today is my last day of training. Flight leaves Monday 8/25 with Air Canada (strike is over). 

All prepped, packed and ready to go. Training complete. Flight leaves on Monday.