Via Regia 2015

Last day. And cut my plan short by two days because of the train strikes. Made reservations a few days ago just to be sure. Plan to spend two extra days in Copenhagen.

Today amounted to 18 mi and 1000 ft climb (29 km and 317 m), much through blossoming trees and lush forests and some great views of towns below. Arrival at Eisenach was by train (as per plan, since they wanted you to take the 5-min train ride to avoid highway).

At Eisenach, am staying at a very Spartan Lutheran hostel that's part of a charity / care facility. Made up for the Spartan side by splurging at the Wein Haus (bottom right of pic), still a part of the original entry into the city now being renovated. Of course, Luther had a connection and hence large statue.

My first time to any of these towns in the former DDR, and they give me an impression of still struggling to go from the state economy to a market economy. Impressions derive from the many restaurants and stores that I find closed. During DDR times, there was little emphasis on refurbishing historical buildings, but lots of effort has been made in the last 25 years to turn that around. Therefore, many of the beautiful pictures owe their beauty to recent infusions of funds!

Erfurt's cathrdral was most impressive even though it was too early to go inside. The other buildings on cathedral plaza and the massive stone foundations of the cathedral were equally imptessive. Just had to add the IKEA presence (my second on the Via Regia).

The next two pics on top became cmon sites along the way, and the bottom two pics are of the Augustinian  Cloister Hostel where I'm staying here in Gotha (dating back to 1258, but heavily renovated into a modern single-room hostel facility) and my view down to the old arcade.

Took over 30 pictures at Buchenwald. Which do you pick and what do you say? It was very moving and I spent over 3 hrs, half on a guided tour.

Buchenwald was the third largest concentration camp, based on the Dachau model (near Munich). For men only, it was a work camp to support the defense industry, including making parts for the V2. The Americans knew that so they heavily bombed the camp--nothing of the factories remains.

Whereas some of the work camps coaxed inmates to take a shower for disinfection, here they were told they'll be measured for something, then shot in the neck from behind (See pic with two doors).

Some 250,000 inmates passed through here between '37 and '45 when Patton's Army liberated the camp; of those some 56,000. perished. Here they had their equivalent of Dr. Mengele, a Dr, Otto, who performed unimaginable operations, all without anesthetic (shown is his operating table). After the war, he himself was found guilty and executed at his own camp. The camp was also used to train SS troops for six-month sessions whereafter they were sent to other camps--Buchenwald, alone, had some 136 subcamps! The two-story bldgs with cars in front were their quarters. The gate in the pic was the entrance to the camp and the gate inscription "For each his own (what he deserves)." Also shown on the bottom right are the commander's   quarters--all the original buildings.

Went 28.1 km (17,4 mi) to get to a hostel and be closer to the next day's goal of Buchenwald on way to Erfurt. Had the church all to myself on this wee town of Stedten with some 150 people. Interesting pics along the way include: use of horse-drawn plow; Buttlesdtedt church (not where I stayed--just interesting); wheel used to press plants that were used for blue dye (before indigo came along); picture of church where I slept.

Easy day of 12.6 mi (20.3) and 770 ft climb throughout the morning. Arrived at the church at about 2:00--preacher's house was open, so I left my backpack off and went searching for food. Nearly everything was closed, so I ended up walking another 3 miles round trip to a store.

The hostel was good--everything you needed was there and this morning the local bakery served coffee at 7:00 and goodies, too.

Interesting pics along the way: a sign you'd easily miss from 20 ft away and the farmer's way of fixing pot holes (works for tractors but not walkers). Also, the end product of the rapeseed plants.

Railway strike is on and I will have to adjust my plans. Will try to catch bus instead of train--we'll see.

Only walked 14+ km (9 mi) today, but what an adventure. Naumburg has a fantastic cathedral where I spent several hours--I didn't want to leave, so I had lunch just outside the cathedral; it's also a world heritage site.  The cathedral dates back to the 13th century, an excellent late Romanesque showpiece. But Naumburg Castle itself dates back to around 1000 AD when one of the most powerful men of the eastern Holy Roman Empire, Margrave Eckard I of Meissen, erected his residence here. Again, primarily because this was the crossroads of important trading routes that needed defense.

Although I wanted to achieve more mileage today, as I passed through Rossbach, I noticed a St Michaels House, a youth training and education center with 60 beds and more mattresses. I couldn't miss that. I stopped in and the lady in the kitchen set me up, then even prepared coffee for me and cut me s piece of cake intended for tomorrow; she gave me the pilgrim room. What a reception!

The pics are from the cathedral and of the St. Michaels House:

At less than 10 km (6 mi), I'm actually already at my scheduled goal for the day and it's only noon. I'll go a bit farther and be into tomorrow's schedule. This morning (Sunday) was full of cyclists in the wine valley along the Unstrut (known as the Unstrut Wine Road). I encountered one vineyard after the next planted on steep grades. And just before Naumberg, I crossed the Saale by ferry (the Unstrut becomes the Saale).

Here are some pictures from this morning that hope to capture the picturesque scenery. The view into the town is still Freyburg and the church is from there as well. Dixieland Jazz sign is for Lucille--yet another venue for her favorite music. The close up of Noah is one of many biblical scenes under the high wine estate--it's "proof" that Noah was the first vintner with grapes in his right hand!!!

Can't believe that 2/3 of my journey is over at the end of today. So far, it's been a marvelous adventure: a snapshot of how the DDR (the former eastern Germany) has evolved over the last 25 years, an immersion into over a 1000+ years of history into this part of Europe and a kingly protected road (the Via Regia) that leads directly to Santiago (known here as the Jakob's Weg=Camino de Santiago).

Last 24 hours was about being full of opposites: sun in the morning today and drizzly in the PM; couldn't find any internet in the morning or last night and tonight I have two (both free); must have gotten lost about four times today, but found my way each time; slept in a real pilgrim style last night (no shower and no laundry) and splurged in high cotton tonight at a wine lovers 3-star hotel on the vineyard slopes of Freyburg (just showered and did my laundry). 20 miles with a blister on the ball of my foot made me do it!!!! I'll be good tomorrow again.

I promised myself while on some beautiful serene forest paths that I would take the first place to save myself some steps--I really didn't have such a nice place in mind (although the outside isn't much to look at because of external work). A huge banquet was in progress with DJ and a live band to boot. The picture brings out the contrast.

Covered 50 km yesterday, 22+ by streetcar to get to the other end of Leipzig and 27+ to get to this beautiful 1000-year old city of Merseburg. The hostel is where the organ used to be in  another church, the Neumarkt Church that dates back to 1188.

Along the way in the small town of Horburg, I passed the tearing sandstone Madonna that dates back to the 1250s. She so upset one of the 17th century Lutheran ministers that he had it "destroyed," but the pieces were later reassembled in the 1930s. The forest paths were decorated with blooming wild flowers.

Only one young couple here with me and the llamas three of us just barely made it into the cathedral built in 1015---tour groups flocked in and out all the while someone played the organ majestically for us, adding to the spirituality of the setting. BTW, Luther preached here in 1545!

And then you have Hugo looking over the church where the two of us slept--I actually felt honored to be there.

Saw and heard so, so much--an amazing city. Picked only three themes: first, one of the many "Passagen" that were used to let the carriages into the court to avoid people getting rained on (nowadays the passages in Europe are filled with shops!)--this one (Mädlerpassage) has Auerbachs Keller in it where Göthe composed Faust--this one is for you, Ruta--it'll bring back memories of your thesis!!!!

The second one is the Historical Events Forum that chronicled the years between 1949 (start of the DDR) and  1989 (the peaceful revolution). It was so well documented with pictures, sounds, clips, etc.

And last but perhaps most importantly the churches, Nikolai and Thomas. Bach was music director for both and peaceful processions were conducted between the two. Then on Oct 9, 89, it all crumbled--that day alone will move you! Nicolas is on top in the quad shot and Thomas on bottom where I heard a recital practice, that added to the emotion.

Back on the road tomorrow!

Walked 14 mi (23 km) to the easternmost edge of Leipzig. My blister slowed me down a little, but it'll have another day to rest. I took a break at a posh golf and country club--only one there at the restaurant. Easily found the church hostel in the community of Sommerfeld--the Lutheran Minister showed me around but apologized that I couldn't stay here a second night because a school group is coming tomorrow (Christ Ascension). Then he came up with the idea that I can sleep in the sacristy of the church--I now have the church key for tomorrow night! He spent so much time with me on Leipzig history and a bit on DDR times. (The pic is where I slept the first night--only one there; and the church for the second night--really cool--the whole church to myself!!)

I have so much to see at Leipzig beginning with the St. Nikolai Church where it ALL started to unravel for the DDR Party (the SED)! Some high official from the Central Committee  was quoted as saying: We had planned everything; were prepared for everything--just not for candles and prayers! Other HUGE players include Bach, Mendelssohn, Goethe, Napoleon, ...

Nice easy day of just 20 km (12 mi) of flat paths and roads just enough for one car--when two came, one needed to pull over to let the other pass. Interestingly I met a couple from Trier not far from the battery I had in 66/67. They stayed at the same Pension as I did last night and we met on the way and agreed to try to meet up tonight at the same hostel. Nice couple and we exchanged many ideas about the locals, east/west issues, and what's plaguing the region of the Via Regia. He was a trauma analyst for quite a while.

Our rooms are above a health store (creams, foods, anything "bio")--check out the picture. Got a small blister because I didn't remove a pebble soon enough--they gave me their last Compede--all fixed ... Saw some interesting farm operations--can only guess what they are.

Easy day of 20 km (12 mi) on nearly all farming service roads or field paths crossing through fields of grain and blooming yellow rapeseed. One scene seemed to compete with the next for the number of oohs and aahs. The field of red was new to me--I didn't have a name for them: foot-high plants with red thimble clusters of red flowering seeds.

Happy Mother's Day! No internet, but got a message out via cell/roaming--really frustrating that I was at a Telekom hit spot, but a private one (even called ATT international thinking something was wrong)!

At only 11 AM and only 11km into the day, I took an early lunch break at a fabulous restaurant in Roda (don't try to find these towns with probably fewer than 500 people). Place was already full with mothers being celebrated, but the owner gave me a special seat as an extension of the bar and a special pilgrim meal--there are some rewards!!!! The owner also explained why so many rapeseed fields: HUGE rapeseed (Raps) oil processing plant a few miles over the hill which I could see from a distance but didn't know what it was.

Several km before the end point, I found myself crossing the Elbe River by ferry--it seemed to be run "on demand." So at 30 km and not much of a climb, I easily found the hostel right next to the church (BTW, these are all Protestant churches), but couldn't find anyone to open it. After several inquisitions and over an hour wait, a nice lady came and saved my day. You can see the pictures of my two-story hostel I had all to myself.

Started the day with a visit to the bakery for some breakfast. Being Saturday, the day brought dozens of clients who wanted to stock up for the weekend--luckily I was fourth in line at 6:50!

Missed an arrow and went the wrong direction. A man came by and made me aware of it! I couldn't believe it. (The next day I discovered others have gotten lost in this area.) He was nice enough to drive me to where I should have been--probably still walked an extra few miles. All in all I probably walked about 32 km (19+ mi)--super tired. Walked through fabulous forests  with many hunters' towers and even a section that was just reclaimed from dense brush--also lots of rapeseed yellow fields.

Before leaving Kamenz, I was drawn into another church, this one turned into a museum with superb triptychs. On leaving the town, I began to climb steeply but was flanked by flowering rhododendrons--I was in a special rhododendron park! See pic.

My destination, Königsbrück (King's Bridge) at 17 mi. was first mentioned in 1248. Historically, it divided Bohemia from Saxony and has changed sides many times. And so the Via Regia was especially important here because of the tolls collected when travelers crossed the two kingdoms. The city itself grew on account of the tolls.

In DDR times, the Soviets had their SS-12 nuclear-tipped missiles stationed here. Institute for Space Medicine was also here -- Jähn, whose Space Museum I visited last week trained here.

Huge contrast with last night's Pension; it's mattress time. I was no worse for it! I was the only one there and heard the bells all night (but faintly). At 6 AM, they rang over 100 times. You had to get up. See second pic of my room and its view of the church at whose hostel I stayed--the priest was so accommodating!

Left the Pension promptly at 8 AM and made my way to Kamenz, the planned goal for yesterday, but only 5 km to go. Have spent nearly 2 hrs here--so much to see: a memorial for the many who died at that location under the NAZI regime and I got them to open just for me the main church, St Marien, built in 15th century and with famous wooden triptych of Mary. Famous author, Lessing wAs baptized here and his father was the preacher here. For the man in charge who let me in, Lessing's "Nathan the Wise One" was required reading as it was for me in college!!!

Am sitting in the main square with fabulous Rathaus (city hall) and adjoining market place--I could stay here all day!

Last evening I just had to treat myself to a Sorbian dinner at an extremely popular Sorb restaurant and only 10 minutes away from the hostel. What a delight--I ordered a 3-course typical wedding dinner with main course being thinly sliced roast beef in a creamy horseradish sauce with boiled potatoes and veggies. It doesn't sound special but tasted great--and with superp presentation. The ambiance was designed to take you to one of their vaulted old restaurants in the basement where they stored the food and ate it as well. A 50+ tour group came as I was midway through and four other groups of 7 to 10 filled the place (see pic).

Today was extremely windy which I'll blame on my not making a turn and losing about 2 mi--oh well. All signs are  bilingual: Ger and Sorb. After some 11 miles, I needed a break, but no stores all along the way and no restaurants. Then to my surprise came a pilgrim oasis: actually a house with pilgrim accommodations, the lady just left goodies of all kinds on a table at the side of the house along with a little box for contributions--a real trail angel. I had hot tea with cake and cookies and apples.

Also, so so many religious statues along the way in fields and in front of houses. Took one of the Greek monk Cyril (responsible for Cyrillic language and spread of Christianity here and eastward.

After 17 miles, I opted to shorten my day by a few miles and picked a Pension because no one was home at a 26-bed hostel. Glad I did. Again no restaurants, so the owner cooked me a simple, but tasty dinner!

The "I" told me their hostel is the second oldest in Germany--I was game. Although modern inside, the hostel's age derives from the 1000+ year old tower that's integrated with it (see the pic). After checking into the Youth Hostel (that alone made me feel young), I marched through the town by the old city hall (Rathaus) to their famous Stasi Prison. This is where political prisoners during the DDR times were incarcerated under horrible conditions--Bautzen became an icon for such political incarceration. The March 1950 insurrection by the prisoners became known as the "Yellow Misery," yellow because of the color of the surrounding wall. Brutality ran rampant. The visit immersed me into solemn times. As I entered the prison, a special exhibit took you through Germany's history from WWI through today-- a good refresher and at the same time seeing their point of view (I didn't see too much revisionism)!

This is the city hall; the above is a government building.

After a frustrated day because of no WiFi, today made up for it. The owner of yesterday's restaurant met me on the way here and insisted on giving me a ride so I'd have more time for sightseeing.

On arrival (14 mi. Total; only walked 4+ mi!), I stopped for a coffee / apple pie and asked an old timer to take a picture of me with tower in background. Turned out he was a POW captured by the Americans in'44 and sent to a prison in California! He couldn't remember the location. That encounter made both of our days--WOW! He was so delighted in meeting me, and I him.