Had a wonderful B&B stay last night in Marcheprime at La Maison de Caroline that ended with a scrumptious breakfast and a group photo this morning with Caroline and Stephane in the back and Emilie and Julie in the front. We had great discussions last night, all in English, over a delicious dinner with a good rosé wine. This morning I opted to take the first 11-km (6.9 mi) leg to Biganos with the train to keep the total distance down. Then I walked the second leg 22.6 km (14.1 mi) on a very boring straight road with an enormous amount of vacation traffic. That's to be expected when you're on the coast. The dual picture gave me confidence that I was on the right path. Pilgrims get such a warm feeling seeing those signs.

My first stop at Sanguinet was the Office de Tourisme which issued me a key to the local Refuge Jacquaire right next to the church (and the bell!!) and made another Refuge arrangement for tomorrow evening. You can imagine the many steps down from a B&B to a Refuge Jacquaire both in quality and price. The picture of the church also attests to the traffic.

Had crazy thoughts of going to Biganos at 35.5 km (22.2 mi), but then I found out while walking that my lodging there was not available. So a fallback option was to walk a reduced 24 km (15 mi) and find lodging in Marcheprime or take the train to another place. As luck would have it, I found a chambre d'hôte in Marcheprime through booking.com (it's the French equivalent of a B&B) and 24 km was just right.

It was a fascinating day--comfortably warm. Very straight country roads that went from asphalt to gravel, my biggest concern being what rocks to avoid. The frequent railroads passing within 15 meters of me interrupted the boredom of the straight path. I picked and ate blackberries and looked for shade to rest, but only found a trailer-mounted large, automated hose reel that pulled the sprinkler as it very slowly wound up a 5-inch hose. Not much shade, but it did the trick. And then there was this truck that you barely see in the picture coming up the same gravel road. He stopped and warned me to cross over now to a parallel road because of the bees ahead--all in near-perfect English. And lastly, there was a superb bike path for about the last 3 miles along the highway. It all made for a fascinating day with a promising B&B experience ahead.

Only had to walk 13 km to my gîte, last one on the Tours Chemin de St Jacques because I head west to the coastal route. Have two others sharing a 10-bed room.

Interesting sights along the way include the Saint-André Cathedral (which was closed today), the City Hall where I got my credentials stamped, Saint-André Hospital that was established in 1390 for the purpose of treating pilgrims, and the University of Bordeaux Business School, called just that.

The second set includes a book store that focused totally on the Beat Generation with lots of Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac lit all in French!, a road sign that actually included my destination gîte, the two lovely hospitaleras, and a statue in front of the facility that portrayed one tired pilgrim--no, make it two.

Caught up walking to where I've been staying at the Refuge Jaquaire--tonight will be my third night. Nice day for walking the 16 km (10 mi)--high 70s, so not too warm, and I walked with a day-pack equivalent, leaving the rest at the Refuge. After saying goodbye to my cyclist friend, Jose, at the Refuge, we went our separate ways (see attached pic) he south and I north to the train station. As I left, I still wasn't sure if I had a third night. I was to meet our hospitalero, Michael, at the Refuge after 2:00 pm and he would let me know.

The theme today was more chateaux and more vineyards. I won't post anything along this line. And when I returned, I found that I had secured a third night. I also had bought food along the way, so there wasn't any need to eat out.

Took the train from my Refuge Jaquaire here at the Bruges station back up to where I took the train to come down. I then walked a short 15 km (9.4 mi) to Macau and timed it so that I would catch a return train at a reasonable time. I also had a snack in Margaux--boy did I lust over just tasting some of their fabulous wine, but I held back.

The theme all the way was chateaux and vineyards; I think I saw where some 1600 chateaux (translate: wineries) were in the Margaux Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC). Just an amazing experience, but of course, without the tasting. What a world of difference between a Saturday in Napa Valley with its bumper-to-bumper traffic and a sleepy Saturday here with few cars and few people! I enjoyed the sedateness of the atmosphere here, plus, I didn't have to watch for all the traffic.

Beside a few pics of chateaux I had to include the tarif liste for wine tasting at just one of the many wineries.

What a beautiful cool day for walking, but not so good day for finding lodging. Got to Blye 16.1 km, which is located on the right bank of the Gironde estuary (which is some 3 km (1.9 mi) wide at this point). Although I thought I would find something here, I couldn't and ended taking the ferry across the estuary, walking another 5 km, and taking the train to Le Bouscat, a suburb of Bordeaux, for lodging at a refuge Jaqunaire (at 10€/night). This is a great place at the corner of a huge cemetery--NO, it's not spooky!

The plan is to take the train back up tomorrow morning and backfilling the hike. My walk to Blaye was filled with scenes of fishermen on the banks of small streams interspersed with bevies of swans, each scene forcing you to stop and "smell the roses." Also, wall-to-wall vineyards and chateaus (several pictures)! When I arrived at Blaye, its citadel greeted me and I entered its gates. I could have spent hours there, but sufficed it with lunch (and a picture from my table). Then I worked with the Office de Tourisme to get lodging, and rushed to make the next train in order to meet the hospitalero. And the "rushing" just aggravates the Achilles heel--I had no choice.

Dinner tonight was as if there were no tomorrow: steak tartare with a raw duck's egg along with a bowl of small filled potato-dough pockets swimming in a Gorgonzola sauce and my first taste of local Bordeaux wine! Words elude me--suffice it to say, I was off the pilgrim's fare, as you can see from the photo. This more than makes up for lunches of plain bread and water while resting on my backpack--it's been an absolute roller coaster!

Rain most of the 16.9 km (10.6 mi) walk and that was a blessing in keeping the temperature down to low 70s. The Achilles tendinitis held steady--no change from when I started today--I seem to be over focused on it, but it worries me because it could mean aborting the trip! The best outcome is that it gets no worse while walking and I may have to change Camino Routes to one with less hill climbing. The tendinitis, incidentally, started right after my 35 km day on Jul 27--now in its 8th day.

I stopped at the Office de Tourisme at about the midway point and the lady made a reservation at the camping site here for me and for the other three (who at 6 PM are still a no-show). I'm staying in a double-width trailer with two bedrooms--check out the pic. I stocked up on food for this evening and morning since there's nowhere to buy anything. BTW, I love seeing the advertisements for Bordeaux wines already. I'm not planning any wine tasting--will save that for another day.

Crazy day: I finally analyzed my foot problem as tendinitis. Now thinking my brace wasn't helping, I saw a pharmacist who confirmed tendinitis and told me to stop the walk. Yeah right. But it did bring me to my senses. I was thinking of doing 31 km tomorrow and, of course, that knocked that idea out--so I'll do about 17 km instead.

I do think it's slowly improving. I did about 25 km (15.6 mi) today and ended up hobbling maybe the last mile. I'll get there. . . Am sharing a hotel room with a first-day walker from Pons, named Constant, a beautiful name that makes you strive hard in life to be unwavering!--at 20+€ each, it was the best deal. My two other older friends are staying with friends and the three younger hikers decided on another hotel. We kept meeting each other at rest stops through the day! I'll see what tomorrow brings as far as meeting up with new walkers. Only 3 nights out from Bordeaux, then I head to the coast, the others toward St Jean (the traditional Camino Frances starting point).

Pictures: Saying farewell to Dominique and Robert, setting the bar for an exceptionally wide load, a boat, that took both lanes, Mirambeau's church with Office de Tourisme just across it, and my roommate for tonight.

Another marvelous day to notch 22.9 km (14.3 mi) without the heat I was expecting--temperature was under clouds and in 70s and the walk mostly easy rolling hills. I encountered a German WW II cemetery on the way--sad that so many young men of the 8000 laid here to rest died for a cause, I think, they never really understood.

At some points, only a passing tractor shared the road with me. I arrived at lunchtime with the Office de Tourisme still closed, so I took a lunch break. It's not everyday one gets to have lunch in a medieval city in front of the 12th century dungeon tower--actually the only complete remnant of its medieval history. Indeed, Pons is a town of 4000+ with tourism at the top of the list.

Our pilgrims' quarters with 4 sets of double bunks is at the lower end of town and lies just 300 meters from the Office de Tourisme, and ironically was the location of the new pilgrims' hospital founded in 1160. Mind you, hospital in those days meant the pilgrims, the poor, the sick being treated by hospitallers more from a religious vantage point than today's hospitals. The remains of this hospital, just meters from our quarters, had a fantastic Camino de Santiago (Chemin de St Jacques de Compostelle) exhibit I couldn't miss.

By the way, all six of us from last night have managed to be at this pilgrims' albuerge, and the two folks that offered me food for dinner last night are offering to prepare something for me tonight as well! Thank you, ever so much.

Another great walking day for the second half from St Jean d'Angely to Saintes (total of 32.2 km for the two days)--it never went above the low 70s. Although I glimpsed a short history of Saintes last night, seeing the Roman ruins here and there made it come to life. I arrived a bit after noon and had nearly four hours to squeeze lunch and sightseeing in before the pilgrims' refuge opened up. Incidentally, now just after 5:00 PM, all six bunks are taken--I got the last lower one.

First, I took a look at the old Abbey that has long ago been decommissioned as an Abbey. The church is still used but the quarters now serve as a hotel and facilities also provide for the EU's musical research center--first two pictures, followed by Roman victory arches at the bridge once allowing Romans to cross over the Charente River. Next, I visited the cathedral that has also been decommissioned as the cathedra of the bishop, but is still used as a church. I still had time, so I marched up to the amphitheater. Its condition had badly deteriorated over the two millennia but still gives good insights into the big picture of what goes on in an amphitheater.

I have been spoiled being the only one at most pilgrim facilities. Definitely came close to not having a lower bunk! The last two bottom pictures show St. Eutrope and just behind it a small refuge for pilgrims.

The Office de Tourisme at St. Jean d'Angely made arrangements for me to stay at St. Hilaire with the Vinet family's B&B at about the same distance as Juicq in my plan. It's half the distance to Saintes and still fighting an ankle problem (although it's getting better), I thought it best to cut my distance back a bit. At 19 km (12 mi) and low 80s with some cloud cover, it was a perfect day for walking!

I had to take a few km detour from my Camino bike path to visit the Lantern of the Dead at a village named Fenioux. Built on a site known to have been used for rituals by Celts at around 500 AD, it's an 11-columned (!!) memorial for the dead--a fascinating structure that one can climb with a very narrow 38-step spiral staircase inside. The local Notre Dame church is within a few hundred meters.

A few other sites caught my eye along the gently rolling hills: an old water wheel on the Boutonne River, a farmer (or Coop) tapping into this little stream for irrigation water (did they have a permit??), and fields of vineyards (both old and new) appearing in greater numbers. By the way, the grain fields have all, as far as I can see, now been harvested and appear to be in the fields in a rolled configuration or in rectangular solids sometimes stacked seven or eight bales high. This massive staging area was overwhelming--one wonders how they managed to stack it so high.

What a place to celebrate my 100th day. The cream I bought for my foot sprain (or whatever it is) seems to be working--it's kind of a Bengay! I managed the skimpy 17.6 km (11 mi) before lunch and met with Marta at the Office de Tourisme. She arranged for a stay at the Abbey for tonight and a stay at a place tomorrow that's midway to Saintes because I didn't want to push for 32 km yet.

St. Jean d'Angely with a pop. of 7,000+ has leveraged its once famous Abbey into a cultural center of the town including a library, the school of music, and the Center of European Culture. Youngsters between ages 16 and 19 come for two-week stays from all over the EU. Although I'm in a two-person room (with loft arrangement--my roomie is on top), they have lots of bigger facilities.

Pictures include: the clock tower that was the medieval entry gate; ruins of Benedictine Abbey Towers of 1741 (the original Abbey was here in 817 already!); Abbey housing in which I'm staying; the library that occupies part of the Abbey with computers, etc.

In the second set, a half-timbered house, their City Hall, and across it their Hall of Justice, and my room (I'm actually taking this pic while lying on the bed).

The cloud cover made for an easy walk of 18.7 km (11.7 mi), but my strain or something in the foot slowed me down considerably even though I had my brace on. For a while, I thought I had it on too tight, but loosening only improved it a bit. Desperate to fix the problem because I have to be at the Office de Tourisme by 1:00 pm at tomorrow's destination (17.6 km), I bought some cream that might help. We'll see. There's that psychological aspect that you have to show your body you're trying to help it!

Aulnay-de-Saintonge is another town with only around 1500 inhabitants, but they have show pieces like St Peter's Church that date to around 1120, an example of Romanesque architecture that will take your breath away. And lots of oriental influences like the elefants at the top of one of the columns. And then there's St Peter's Tower with a 12-ft thick wall from the 1100s that attests to the fact that the local Viscount was serious about defense. Of course, the 100-years war pretty much destroyed everything. Next to the tower and City Hall is the first colored war memorial that I can ever remember seeing.

I had to include a picture of the Halte Jacquaire (another term for an albuerge in Spain). The upstairs has a small bedroom with three sets of high/low bunks and the downstairs a full kitchen and bathroom and clothes washer. Just came back from buying food for tonight and for breakfast. Again, I'm the only one here.

Yesterday was down, today was up. I only walked 13.1 km (8+ mi) to guarantee lodging and give my Achilles Tendon a rest--marvelous results. I stopped at a l'Office de Tourisme first, then bought a sandwich to go, and met a welcoming lady for the Organization called Maison des Art. Keeping in mind that Brioux has a population of around 1500, I have a hard time getting my arms around this organization and its ability to own/run this four-bedroom house for pilgrims! (A few pictures don't do it justice--and at pilgrims' prices, with a fully stocked kitchen, and with Wi-Fi.) They also manage to accomplish quite a lot for the community.

It's a gîte (pronounced like the second g in garage: ʒit) and technically to be called a gîte, the owner must live close by in order to provide help, assistance, and a warm welcome to guests. And I stress "warm," because this hostess actually came down the street and found me eating my sandwich, then retrieved my walking poles for me that I left at the boulangerie, took me to the house, and showed me around. It made all the difference in the world. Then she tried to help me with the next reservation.

After a brief rest, I found the photo op place for the Brioux iconic shot of the St Jacques Portal with church in background! I feel like I'm on convalescent leave, but the rest feels good.

The top picture says it all: I walked at least 36 km (22.5 mi) yesterday. And with breaks including lunch, it took me about 10 hrs. I overestimated. So, what did I get for that effort, and worse, for not making a reservation ahead of time? I found all my places closed or no answer on the telephone, and a nearby hotel with no vacancy. Luckily, the only other hotel was available but I had to walk another two km just beyond town. And it's back to the heel brace on the other foot for an Achilles tendon problem. You'd think by the 97th day, I wouldn't make all these mistakes.

On the brighter side, the farmers' creativity had me laughing along the way. And, yes, tomorrow will be a much shorter day!

I had lodging arrangements in mind as I left Poitiers, France but as I got closer I realized they were a good many miles off my route, so I cancelled. Emotionally that threw me into a low, because of the insecurity I suddenly felt. I was toying with pushing my distance into the 45 km (28+ miles) range. Then the heat made me realize, I couldn't get there--although it was only low 80s. A hotel was an option back a ways, but I stubbornly passed it up at lunch. BTW, I stopped at a cemetery to replenish my water and to cool off--great source of water.

Then I nearly hit the panic stage--no, I actually did hit it at 32 km (20 mi) here in Lusignan, when, while asking around, I discovered they also have a "Refuge Jacquaire," basically a Gite, a fully equipped apartment (pilgrim-style), for pilgrims run by the city hall (Mairie)! That skyrocketed me emotionally. And so that was my day today.

Walked back some 15 km to Futuroscope, a theme park based on multimedia, cinematographic and audio-visual techniques. Their photo of the park looks impressive. Then I returned by train to Poitiers and walked another 5 km sightseeing. I didn't enter the park, but looked at what they advertised--based on the cars, attendance looked skimpy. Then again, they made it extremely easy to come down from Paris by train.

My main goal was to visit the Notre Dame of Poitiers whose Romanesque architecture and painted interior walls immediately strike you (1st set of three). Then I walked to the Cathedral whose construction, like most, began in the 12th century. Unusual about it is that it has no apse and its broad front vs height gives it an exceptionally huge and boxy look (2nd set of three). I failed to be able to get my credentials stamped at either one, which disappointed me.

It was an eight-hour day, and by the time I came back to my room, I was dragging. I also stopped at the Office de Tourisme; they made me a reservation at tomorrow's place. We talked about the refugees who were being helped by the Abbey and the lady was facilitating that aid.

For dinner, I walked some five minutes to a local Kebab place, got to chitchatting with the owners who came from Tunisia. They were so taken by my pilgrimage they ended up treating me for dinner--what kindness. We all agreed that our three Abrahamic religions should solve the mess we're in! So much commonality, yet so much strife--they simply asked that I pray for them! Trail Angels (picture included).

I received a sad message during the night that our American Pilgrims Co-coordinator, Anita, had a bad fall during their group's walk--concussion with possible sutures of her lip. Haven't heard the final outcome. It saddened me because Anita is one who gives her all to the spirit of Camino--my prayers are out there for you, Anita.

The sunflowers smiled at me as I passed them, and I hoped they did to all who need a brighter day! My main goal for today was to walk about half the 33.1 km and see the famous battle area for the Battle of Tours, aka the Poitiers Battle of 732, then take the train to Poitiers. It took me out of the way a few km, but was well worth it--just mulling it over in my mind how significant it was, even though it only lasted a day.

It's basically an outdoor area meant to be walked or cycled; I focused on the starting area that explains what went on. Here is the first major clash between Europe, King Charles Matel and his forces against an Islamic Invasion, the army of the Umayyad Caliphate led by 'Abdul Rahman Al Ghafiqi, Governor-General of al-Andalus. Rahman was killed the first day and it was all over. But it could have turned the other way!

Am sleeping at the Auberge Jeunesse (youth hostel) in a 4-bed room reserved for pilgrims--and I'll be the only one in this room--nice place. There seem to be quite a few people here, just not pilgrims. They wave the 10€ membership for pilgrims!

Easy 15.9 km (10 mi) on small paved country roads--all level. I had a spacious Gite last night all to myself above a veterinarian office that luckily didn't board any animals. All for 10€, and tonight is even better. I'm at the Le Chillou D Ozon Campground in Chatellerault with some 30 or 40 families. But mine is a camping trailer maybe a 20-footer fully equipped for pilgrims, a Gite, but again, I'm the only one in it (in a pinch, it could hold 6). It's situated on the Vienne River. And the price for pilgrims is 4.32 €!

Being St Jacques' Day today, I had to Facebook an appropriate photo of him overlooking Paris. Although I didn't take the photo, I was at the tower whose top he adorns. Tomorrow will be a long-distance day to Pointiers with a must-stop at the famous battle of 732 against the Arabs on this side of the city.

Yes, I found the energy to go the few km into the town for some cheese tasting, except we did it on a crepe--fantastic!

Today was filled with unbelievable coincidences. It was a great walking day for doing 21.8 km (13.6 mi). My Belgian roommate parted ways at 10 am, and I headed for a boulangerie / pâtisserie and had some pastry and coffee. We ended up going completely opposite ways--mine possibly a few km shorter although it didn't seem like it. We talked about a good village for lunch, that I aimed for. We both enter the village from opposite sides (after 17 km--10.6 mi) at exactly the same time! We couldn't have planned that. We ate, both had the Ftench version of bacalao (salted cod)--fantastic meal, and went our separate ways--he's only doing a one-week stage starting at Tours and ending at Pointiers.

We're staying in different villages, although I thought it was the same. I ended up having to walk an extra 5 km. I picked up the key at the office de Tourisme. Got a liter of Perrier on the way to my Gite--got settled into a place with three double beds, but I'm the only one in the place. While going to find my Gite (kind of a fully-equipped place, but it doesn't seem different from an albuerge), I crossed the River, la Vienne, spelled exactly like Vienna! A good omen!

Here I am at a Pizza Restaurant, and as usual, the first guest at 7:30. I couldn't help doing their pizza with ham and local goat cheese (chèvre). Fantastic!