Split this day into more manageable pieces and it turned out perfectly for walking: easy distance of 8+ mi even with some respectable hills, temp of high 70s, end-stretch of 2 miles were actually down hill, and I enjoyed a beer while waiting for the reception to open.

I’m staying at the Hotel Palazzo Renieri here and what a surprise at how modern it is—wow. AND the Internet is super fast! Can’t wait to check out their breakfast.

The trail had some really rugged parts and even had two stream crossings that I took very carefully (my balance is very poor, but I manage with the poles). At about midway, a welcome rest spot appeared with shaded tables and chairs and snacks/ drinks available. The host offered us local figs and a peeled fruit the size of a kiwi with sweet flesh that had seeds similar to grape seeds. I found out that they’re prickly pears—I ate 4 of them—really yummy. These grow wild in CA, and I never had one! A friendly English couple provided company and even treated.

I rested this 5th day in San Gimignano with all its remaining medieval towers that were built by wealthy and noble families to show their immense wealth and power during this period. These "tower-houses" also served as fortified homes and a means of defense against rivals and attackers, with height being a direct symbol of a family's status.

It amazes me that a little town with only 7000 to 8,000 people can become such a tourist Mecca. I asked myself what I was actually seeing—it seems a stage with thousands of people visiting a place they felt they needed to visit. And because they’re here, it’s turning my simple stopover into a much richer experience.

The main church here is a so-called Collegiate Church, never becoming a cathedral, a bishop’s seat, but gaining significant importance. The defining feature is the college or chapter of clerics (canons) attached to it. Historically, Collegiate Churches served both religious duties and were associated with educational institutions like universities or colleges, especially after the Reformation.

Happy Labor Day! Today, day 4, was soooooo much easier—half the distance and fewer hills. I arrived at my destination a little after noon, definitely a hilltop, tourist town, checked into my fabulous hotel and began my 44-hr rest and maintenance phase (laundry, blogging, mail, you name it). So happy I planned the rest days.

Along the way it amazes me how the “trail” integrity is maintained as number one priority—it goes under churches and under your house (if your property lies on both sides of it). Their garbage bins are in five categories and pretty conveniently placed everywhere. And the vineyards and olive orchards kept me company—such delightful companions. I’m seeing more and more “pilgrims” along the way, maybe a couple dozen throughout the day. Am comfortably making reservations one day ahead.

Hardest day so far with all the ups and downs and many of the ups were very steep and just drained me of energy (no shade and temp at 80+ didn’t help). Ended up walking nearly 10 hours and for the last two miles, needed to rest every five to ten minutes—really pathetic, but I made it. Oh, and when I arrived at the Town Center, I was momentarily blocked by a policeman from going to the hotel only 20 meters away: Big Festival going on. (They’re called Palio Festivals, that involve traditional games competition among its four historic districts.) They didn’t have to do this for me!

Along the way (see the pics below), there was a metal 20-days to Rome marker, to indicate to pilgrims that they have 20 more days of walking! Then I ran into my first grape vines that have pretty much been all around me since. And the fountains (I think there were 3) were a savior: they helped cool me off by splashing over my head and adding to my water supply.

I saw Olive trees/ orchards planted near vineyards, a long tradition in Italy for multiple reasons, including their natural ability to act as windbreaks, protect against heat and frost, and provide shade for grapevines, which improves pollination and fruit development. It’s also known as companion planting.

I feel like a seasoned pilgrim after today’s 18 mi, some respectable hills along with 5 stamps in my pilgrim’s passport—love these hill-top towns at the end of the day when you’re already tired and find you have to climb another steep 500 ft to reach your destination. I didn’t set any records: started walking at about 8:00 am and arrived at my B&B at about 4:30 pm. And, I even took a few shortcuts from the official route to save my energy and stop at a grocery store. 

The gentle drizzle along with cloud cover much of the time made for a comfortable trek. On the other hand, my pants and sandals ended up muddy and I took care not to slip and fall in the mud. The trail consisted mostly of gravel covered with runoff clay.

Didn’t do much sightseeing. Had a great Tagliolini with black truffle for dinner at the Piccola Osteria del Tartufo restaurant (the Little Truffle Tavern) along with a glass of local Chianti. All the restaurants didn’t open for dinner until 7:00 pm. I sat a stone’s throw from the Church of St Domenico, easily recognizable by the unfinished facade—they’ve had since 1330 to complete it. (Pics include dinner and this church.)

My walk today served as my initiation to the Via Francigena. Got most of it in before it hit 80. The last mile or so challenged me and three other pilgrims behind me in that a huge tree fell across the trail, which for maybe a quarter of a mile had turned into a real dirt trail (whereas the first 10 miles were either sidewalks or country road shoulders). To get around it, I had to battle branches along with wild thorny runners: 20 minutes to get through 30 feet of it! In another tenth of a mile I rested by a hostel and met 3 fellow pilgrims (two from Ohio and one from the Czech Republic).

From a pilgrim’s standpoint, today’s destination of Altopascio (pop ~15K) revealed something quite fascinating. A little research tells me that the Order of Saint James of Altopascio (Italian: Ordine di San Giacomo d'Altopascio or Ordine dei Frati Ospitalieri di San Jacopo), also called the Knights of the Tau (Cavalieri del Tau) or Hospitallers of Saint James, was founded here at Altopascio at around 1070. It’s a military order, perhaps the earliest Christian institution to combine the protection and assistance of pilgrims, the staffing of hospitals, and a military wing.

My guess is that today’s church of San Iacopo in Altopascio (St James in Altopascio) is probably where the order was actually founded. The church’s history apparently changed in 1988, when the remains of an earlier worship building, dating from the late 11th century, were found. From these - which included part of the facade and apse - it can be deduced that the original temple was smaller in size than the one built in the second half of the 12th century. The beautiful crenellated bell tower can be dated accurately back to 1280. Wow!

Spent 1 1/2 days exploring Lucca, my springboard for the last third of the Fracigena. Steeped in history, Lucca is replete with middle-age churches that were built over its predecessors and still standing as proof of these awesome accomplishments. Such welcome sites in our modern dizzying world—their timelessness is so calming. It’s worth the price of admission! I’m ready for my first day tomorrow.

My last meal inside Lucca’s surrounding wall was aptly a late lunch on top of the wall almost a stone’s throw to my hotel (Hotel Rex), a cozy place five minutes from the train station. And I enjoyed lunch while pondering the Cathedral where I start my adventure tomorrow. 

Am counting Day 1, as my first day on  the Via Francigena, which will be Friday 8/29). Spent yesterday after arrival in Rome getting acclimated to the time change and the throngs of people. Stayed Antica Dimora Delle Cinque Lune, a small boutique hotel just a block away from the Tiber River from where I could see St Peter’s Basilica. I took a walk to Trevi Fountain, passing the Pantheon and a massive peaceful anti-Gaza protest on the way. This morning I’m completely caught up on sleep and energy and will continue take the train to Lucca.

Just testing my blog—thanks go out to Douglas  who is behind it all👍❤️. Today is my last day of training. Flight leaves Monday 8/25 with Air Canada (strike is over). 

All prepped, packed and ready to go. Training complete. Flight leaves on Monday.

The last day of any of my walks has always been bittersweet, hating to see them end, but realizing they’re only an excursion. And this one has had some interesting twists to it. It’s been a perfect walking day: cloudy and comfortably warm.

Bad Reichenhall is well known for its wellness clinics and spas. Right next to my hotel was a clinic treating cancers and psychosomatic illnesses—think about that one. So you have cancer symptoms caused by some identifiable source or by your mind—they’ll treat either one—hmmm! They’ve got you covered.

Walking back to Salzburg, several times I had to nostalgically look back; and lunch was facing the snow-covered mountains I saw two days ago. Then by a twist of fate, I ran into an American pilgrim from New Mexico; he’s not going all the way to Santiago. We chitchatted a while like two kids who just found a new playmate on the playground and exchanged information, including a selfie. Maybe a half hour later I ran into another pilgrim, an Austrian, this time, who plans to go all the way. We rested on a bench together, then continued our separate ways.

The last three pics are of my super light new Gossamer Kumo 36 backpack that Douglas gave me: first as it was loaded (about 15 lbs); unloaded with 11 pieces/bags fitting into the backpack; and finally “exploded” view with unpacked items. If anyone is interested, I actually have my packing list with me.

Today’s 12.4 mi (19.8 km) to Bad Reichenhall are part of my plan to return to Salzburg. These miles were psychologically better than originally walking upstream, because going downstream gives you the feeling you’re really going with the flow.

Each day, I‘ve gotten into the habit of making a sandwich to eat towards lunch. My favorite lunch spots have been by the rivers—today the Saalach entertained me going downstream. Still seeing a good number of cyclists and local walkers, even a group of about 20 very much in formation, two abreast, ten deep (not my preferred way to enjoy such beautiful scenery, but maybe the only way to control a tour group).

Only one more walking day left.

Today on my 20th day, I completed my outbound Austrian Camino trek (254 miles) that’s taken me from just outside of Vienna to Lofer, a few days beyond Salzburg. BTW, I did my fourth grade in Saalfelden, Austria, just 15 miles southeast of Lofer. Still have about 30 miles to walk back to Salzburg and then by train back to Vienna to begin time with relatives.

Today took me upstream along the Saalach River, a typical roaring mountain river that offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Alps—images I had hoped to find and wasn’t disappointed. Can’t describe the joy this hike has brought me and how grateful I am to be able to make it.

What a delightful walk of 12.2 miles all in Germany upstream of the mountain river Saalach that runs into Salzburg‘s Salzach a few miles upstream. Most was actually right next to the rushing sounds of the river while seeing the mountains along side the valley. The high peaks were a good 3,000 ft, but from the trail it was more like 1000 feet up to the top of the surrounding cliffs.

The walk was all about the river and the mountains and how majestic the scenery emerged as shown by the pics. I‘m staying at a fabulous place across the local church with a fantastic kitchen!

It took me the first 2 1/2 mi to leave Salzburg with its airport being one of the last reminders of the busy suburbs. Heading generally southwesterly, you felt the beginnings of the alps surrounding you until arriving at Bad Reichenhall which is definitely an alpine town as well as a very popular spa resort area known for its high-salt spa pools.

I shared this section of the Austrian Camino with a few horses and walkers but mostly lots of cyclists. Had a great lunch just across the small Marzoll Castle but was surprised with steep climbs afterwards that were so serenely quiet forest areas compared to yesterday’s hustle and bustle. One of the markers told me I still had 2,420 km (1512 mi) to go until Santiago!

At 6.8 mi (10.9) km with zigzags, it was a short day to thoroughly enjoy the Salzburg scene and do some planning ahead and replanning for the next 5 walking days. Seeing the city of Salzburg from a distance stirred within me many feelings of long ago—it was the city from which we emigrated and it was where I began learning English for 2 1/2 months—not much, but it was my start, and sentimentally I still have that first book from which I started in the fall of 1951 (beginning 5th grade)!

The city has not lost its charm and the number of tourists seems to have grown, and it’s not even high season yet with the festival not starting until mid-July. I just looked and saw so many operas and plays (like Jedermann) already sold out!

Many notable sights are those of tourist interest with the exception of Christian Doppler‘s birth house. I‘ll try to provide some labels: Salzburg‘s castle on the hill in the distance; walking through the baroque Mirabelle Palace Gardens (bridal party, fountain); leaving Mirabelle and looking up to the castle and the cathedral with its two domes below; Doppler‘s birthplace; walking over the Salzach River bridge with countless locks from newly weds; Getreide Gasse (most famous tourist street of old town); Salzburger Nockerl (most famous soufflé dumpling dessert usually ordered for two or three!); front of Cathedral where Jedermann is played during the Festival (totally sold out); Mozart‘s birth house; and last but not least, a statue of Salzburg‘s native son: Mozart.

Today’s 13.4 mi (21.4 km) took me through the beautiful countryside with spectacular views. My first rest was at a pond on a floating pontoon bench; then a walk through the forest and a scene of happy cows; a visit to St Brigida (aka St Brigitte) Church; a fight at my luncheon restaurant that police was called to stop; the beer man made of beer kegs; and a cyclist accident that happened before my very eyes (no pics—would have been most impolite).

Being only about 5 miles from Salzburg, I will use tomorrow to replan my itinerary and buy train tickets to take the train the following day (Mother’s Day, May 12th) to my walking endpoint (TBD) and walk back to Salzburg over the remaining five days to put me in Vienna on Friday, May 17th.

Today’s 13.6 mi (21.8 km) was a preplanned veering off course due to lodging, although some time was spent on the Austrian Camino. Tomorrow I‘ll be on it again for some of the way.

As it turns out, 8 miles west of here where I‘m staying is a lake and town called Mattsee where I did my 3rd grade ‘49/‘50 in a boarding school. It’s also where I chipped my kneecap caused by jumping on my bed, then getting my knee infected (and not telling anyone) and being rushed to a Salzburg Hospital for emergency surgery—what memories—all good new experiences!

The countryside was peppered with farm houses and very small villages that seemed more concerned about working the land than political issues—haven’t seen political signs and am seeing more traditional Lederhosen and Dirndln, to me a sign of people doing their own thing. I also noted by the accents that many minorities live in these smaller towns.

 Today threatened rain for the entire 14.2 mi (22.7 km), but luckily it was only bluffing. I pretty much followed the Austrian Camino Route, but was thankful I had the electronic track because during very narrow trails along farmers‘ fields there were no markings and many choices for wrong turns. That GPS is amazing—how did we ever do it without it!

Took a break in a little town of Vöcklabruck that had it’s weekly market in full swing—nice to see all that action. Other interesting things that caught my attention: the biggest chair I’ve ever seen; paths next to streams and over bridges; really narrow path; flowering rapeseed fields (think Canola); herd of deer watching me; and many really happy cows.

Today’s cushy 10.7 mi (17.1 km) was again all Austrian Camino, this time mainly along the Ager Stream that provided the pleasant trickling sound of water over the river rocks. Leaving the village of Stadl-Paura, I gained a morning view of the majestic Lambach Abbey (1056–wow).

Here and there I saw a few indicators that I was correctly on the Pilgerweg (Camino), and I even spotted the indicator showing that both directions were correct ( which was wrong according to my electronic track).

Entering Attnang-Puchheim, I spotted an outsized interest in baseball, and it turns out to be home if a baseball team as well as home of the Austrian Baseball Association. My hotel, 4-star old-world luxury, is over the top in decadence—pilgrims don’t deserve this level, but there’s not much to choose from (on hotels.com or booking.com) in this lovely town of 9,000 and the price is right, at least for this trip.