Another near-16 mi walk brought me to Bolsena, a real vacation spot (and well earned rest spot for pellegrinos). The walk had two distinct types of trails: the first 7 mi up to San Lorenzo Nuovo was standard gravel trail, but the second half was rugged with some seriously jagged stretches. It also provided promising glimpses of the day’s destination.
San Lorenzo Nuovo was a perfect rest spot. I ordered my usual Café latte, but it came with a marvelous surprise, a custom-engineered spoon optimized to stir the sugar at the bottom of the cup. They tilted the spoon’s bowl just enough to where more of the bowl was parallel to the bottom of the cup (it looked almost like a golf club)—see the pic below.
I included some pics of the rough terrain including the stairs I didn’t take—you had the very steep option of going around.