The trail was mostly paved asphalt, dirt hard pack, or gravel with none of the challenging uneven rocks, boulders, or Roman Pavers. It went into the low 80s after lunch, and both heat and hydration were the biggest concern. I found myself just plopping on the ground several times to cool down and rehydrate.
The sounds of hazelnut maintenance equipment went on for quite a while after leaving Sutri—even on a Sunday. Even though I started at 7:30, I didn’t see other pilgrims until about 10:00—some in front of me and others passing me. What seemed like big stray dogs, turned out to be sheep herders working for their boss. Then I encountered an Italian national golf school along the trail—inn the middle of nowhere.
Campagnano, another hilltop small town, has 11,000 some people, along with quaint narrow streets. My reward for the ending killer climb to the top was a dinner at my hotel of grilled Porcini Mushrooms—they’re so delicious.
