This leg was extremely scenic going through forest at the beginning and end portions of the walk. That provided shade as well. The end portion was very challenging for me since my balance isn’t nearly what it should be. The slightest narrowing of the trail with drop offs to one side strikingly slowed me down. But I made the 14+ miles despite the impediments. Most of the walk was downhill, but the temperature went well into the 80s after noon.
Much of the middle of the walk led through hazelnut orchards that were in maintenance mode. That meant the Hazelnut orchard grounds were worked with blowers to move fallen nuts and organic debris into neat piles or rows for harvesting, and to clear drive paths so that mechanical harvesters can operate efficiently without picking up too much dirt and other foreign material. The use of blowers apparently is an essential step in preparing for the harvest, to ensure a cleaner nut collection and more efficient harvesting process.
With 4 miles to go, the town of Capranica offered a last rest stop with cafes. Here’s where I spotted the price of my porcini mushrooms (28€ per kilo or $15 per lb) as well as a welcome placard for pilgrims with which I very much resonated. I copied it below:
Dear pilgrim, welcome to Capranica!
Your journey along the millennia-old Via Francigena has brought you here, about 60 kilometers from your destination, the Eternal City.
Today, we are fortunate to see you, meet you, and welcome you.
Upon entering Capranica, you passed through our precious hazelnut fields, which tell of days filled with hard work. You have savored the beauty of nature and places steeped in history, such as the ancient Vicus Matrini. In just a few steps, you will reach Castrum Capralice. Here, for centuries, the inhabitants of our village have welcomed travelers from all over the world, driven by different motivations, united by the shared experience of "walking the journey."
You will walk through alleys whose cobblestones have supported the steps of thousands of people and whose walls still echo the emotions left behind along the way. Soon, you will discover the purlying waters or the san rocco fountain. Before delving into the enchanting Etruscan valley of Donazzano, a place that will leave you breathless (and that’s the part that really challenged me!).
We admire you for the path you are walking, as it represents life itself, with its joys and sorrows, challenges, and hopes. Today, we are happy to be part or lt, even if only for a short stretch.
We sincerely hope that, at the end of your journey, “not only will you have walked the path, but the path will have transformed you".
Signed: The inhabitants of Capranica
