Had a great next to last day walking  a short 18 km (11 mi) and, although it says climbing 2300 ft, my guess is probably half that. Although rain was in the forecast, it never materialized. I arrived dry at my nondescript Hotel Domus Urbis and have already experienced their tiny rooms. With laundry hanging crisscross, I have to duck with any move I make. The good news is that there’s a mall about 100 meters up the road (picture included) and I was able to find special glue for rubber soles and a short-sleeve all-purpose white shirt for “evening” wear. It’s transition mode and maintenance mode, too.

About several miles out, I discovered that I’m now within coverage of the Rome public transportation system—that’s comforting to know.

I have another 18 km (11 mi) to walk tomorrow, but with very little climbing to get to the pilgrims’ office at the Vatican. Rain is forecast for the whole afternoon tomorrow—that’s not a nice welcome for all of us! Oh well, we won’t melt. Will turn my phone service on mid-morning so grandson Kurtis and his wife Jesse can reach me.

Day 46 of my Camino. On my way to Monterotondo, I savored every one of the 16 km (10 mi) and all the 1132 ft of climbing, knowing that my friend the Camino and I will part in Rome in two days. The bitter-sweet emotion is already setting in. I didn’t even complain today as I gingerly walked uphill over its rocks that were out to trip me up. BTW, not once have I fallen in all the 46 days—and I thank my trekking poles for that. And my right sandal held on for dear life not letting its sole separate another millimeter. Thank you.

Just a few pics along the way that intrigued me: the randomness of bales of hay; the path; resting next to the path and thinking about it; my primo pellegrino hotel room at the other end of the Monterotondo Cathedral (there is no better room).

Only 13 km (8 mi) and climbing 1300 ft—easy day especially going through olive orchards and vineyards. Temperature is approaching 90, but I took enough breaks towards the end to keep from overheating.

Met my Polish friend early this morning, the one who brought me to my lodging, after we discovered that the wrong telephone number was published. Then, when I really needed a break at a bar/cafe, I discovered it was closed. But the proprietress opened for me, and had me served coffee and cake, and all was free! Then made sure I left with some cold water. Then I came across a source of cool water at the edge of an olive orchard—what a blessing.

Many place names are followed by “Sabina,” and the town of Montelibretti is on the slopes of the Sabine Hills. Yes, it’s the same Sabine as in the paintings or sculptures “Rape of the Sabines.” Lots of legend / history here of Romulus needing women for starting families for the newly founded Rome. The king of Sabina, however, refused to allow marriage with the Romans. The Sabines were tricked and abducted during games. I never connected all that until reading some history of Montelibretti.

Comments on pics:
1. Olive tree about a few hundred years old
2. A water source when you least expect one at the edge of the olive orchards
3. Olive farmers keeping the fields cleared
4. Rocky paths are inevitable
5. My friend from Brazil I hadn’t seen in a while
6. The path I elected not to take.

Designed my own route today (part bicycle route and part forest route) same distance of 20 km (12.5 mi), but not nearly the climb of 2700 ft. It was mid-80s and I didn’t need extra challenges! Proof that I was on the bici route—just look at all the bikes coming uphill. There must have been at least thirty!

CaminoWays had bad phone numbers on their vouchers for lodging tonight so a local (originally Polish fellow from Krakow who spoke good English) gave me a ride up here—again, an Agriturismo Hotel in the boonies, 6 km (4 mi) ride. But so far, a lovely place with not very many people—I don’t know how these places survive! I suppose they cater to the bus traffic that gives them spurts of business now and then. But the owner told me it’s the restaurant business that means most to him, despite having 21 rooms.

Comments on Pics:
1. Some trails don’t even look like trails!
2. A pond with statues and running water, in the middle of nowhere, right on the trail??
3. Yes, bici! But I haven’t seen a Bici Grill in weeks.
4. My Polish/Italian friend who gave me a lift. Then I saw him the next day on the road—Karma at work
5. My Agriturismo lodging, La Ripa

Totally beat. Took the bicycle route, but outsmarted myself. Ended walking much further and climbing about the same—maybe just not over jagged rocks. Probably walked 28 km ( 18 mi). Decent weather—not hot, and no rain. Funny that I still ran into mud on the last 4 km and had to cross a creek for which I fetched a log nearby—otherwise I would have gotten my sandals wet.

Am at an Agriturismo Lodging really in the boonies. The kids in their 20s speak very well English and they’re working the business.

My socks are getting holes! Maybe I can get my two pairs to last me the five days, then I’ll buy new ones in Rome.

It thunder stormed and rained last night, so that I wanted to avoid the muddy trails at all costs. Basically, I took the bicycle path to the town of Rieti covering the short distance of 17 km (10 mi) and all downhill. The town of Rieti is on one edge of the Rieti Valley, once a lake that the Romans drained via the canal that ended in the Marmore’s Falls.

Discovered this morning that my right sandal became a victim of the rocks and the sole is starting to separate from the rest. Hope they can make it to Rome—may have to use duct tape! Then I saw why I lost a water bottle—something tore a hole in the netting holding the bottle. And thirdly, within a few miles of the hotel, a little hole in my sock, became huge—it exposed my entire big toe. So embarrassed that I changed socks at first bench.

Rieti with only about 50,000 people is considered a good sized town having a cathedral and a university. Piazza San Rufo is traditionally considered to be the exact centre of Italy (Latin Umbilicus Italiae) and if you do a Wikipedia search of Rieti, it in fact looks like the center of Italy! Also just learned that our Lakers’ Kobe Bryant grew up here in Rieti from age of 6 on. His dad retired from NBA and moved the family here.

Comments on pics: one shows entering the old part of Rieti, then standing in front of the Cathedral with a statue of St Francis, and lastly about to cross the  Velino River.

Today was a difficult day, not just because of the 22 km (14 mi) and 3200 ft of climbing, but also because there were several treacherous downhill sections that were rocky and gravelly making it easy to slide down and fall. It took me an awfully long time to get through these sections—I cautioned  on the safe side.

Needless to say, I took lots of little breaks to keep from overheating and getting dehydrated. I also met two groups from Austria (a twosome and a threesome). Everyone was struggling with parts of the trail today. Luckily it wasn’t too hot and much of the hike was shaded.

The destination town was nearly vertical and navigating through it to the hotel was a challenge. My app, MapOut, was running nearly the whole time through town because there were so many tight turns. To get to the hotel, one had to pass totally through town and come back up a ways on the other side. The innkeeper overwhelmed me with hospitality—within minutes after checking into the room she brought me a liter of chilled water and a 20 oz beer with potato chips. I finished all of it after which I fell asleep in a swing on the balcony.

Comments on Pictures:

I dreaded going down that rocky, gravely path. And there were times the path seemed to disappear. View of the town of Poggio Bustone from our common balcony at the hotel. Notice the raviolis—4”x 4”!!!

Another great day, covering only 13 km (8 mi), but having to climb about 1000 ft—but what a reward after the climb. First, a bar/cafe had just opened for us (met my Australian hikers at the top), so it was a cappuccino and donut. THEN, we had also arrived at the entrance to Cascata delle Marmore (Marmore's Falls) which is a man-made waterfall created by the ancient Romans. In fact, it’s the highest man-made waterfall in the world.

Here’s the story (Wikipedia). The Velino river flows through the highlands (we just climbed 1000 ft so we’re in the highlands) that surround the city of Rieti—I’ll be staying in Rieti in two nights. In ancient times, it fed a wetland in the Rieti Valley that was thought to bring illness (probably malaria). To remove that threat to the city of Rieti, in 271 BC, the Roman consul Manius Curius Dentatus ordered the construction of a canal (the Curiano Trench) to divert the stagnant waters into the natural cliff at Marmore. From there, the water fell into the Nera River. The waterfall’s total height is 165 m (541 feet), making it the tallest man-made waterfall in the world. Of its 3 sections, the top one is the tallest, at 83 m (272 feet). Since the waterfall is also part of a hydroelectric plant, they turn the falls off and on to balance tourist and power demands. Luckily, it was on when we were there!

After descending (without backpack) to a fantastic lookout point, and paying my respects to the waterfall, I hiked on another 6 km (4 mi) to Piediluco to my hotel (Hotel Maralago) situated right on the lake—I feel like a tourist!

For about a mile, the trail skirts Lake Piediluco, at times even giving you the flavor of wetlands right next to the path. There’s also one pic of the town of Piediluco itself.

At 15 km (9 mi) and nearly flat, today’s route followed the swift currents of the Nera River and ended as one of my journey’s easiest days. That was despite walking for a few hours in a light drizzle and having a most difficult time finding our lodging—the iPhone just doesn’t work very well in the rain!

The trail was mainly unpaved and could be considered a farming access road as well as a road for the Monti Sibillini National Park. Some of the trail was under the shade of trees.

Crazy, difficult day because after climbing up the 300 feet or so to the Rocca Albornoziana, named after the cardinal who ordered the fortress built, I discovered that the bridge to cross the valley had been closed. The bridge is actually just the top of a huge imposing aqueduct looking structure. My only alternative was to go around the fortress until I find a way down and use an alternate route. Luckily an escalator took me down the 300 or so feet, but coming back up on the other side of the canyon was a difficult rocky path that foreshadowed more rocky segments to come. The downhill parts were especially hard on these jagged rocky segments. So, all in all, probably walked 20 km (12.5 mi) and climbed 2500 ft.

For my Australian friends, the day went even worse. They too had to do this bypass, but then took a “wrong” turn (they also have CaminoWays and are only using the book) and ended some 20 miles off course. We ended up at our remote B&B at almost the same time, they having taken a taxi to bring them back on course, as it were. So for nearly an hour and a half I’ve tried to get Bill to download MapOut, but everything was going wrong, and we gave up (he has an iPhone 3 and the app wouldn’t install; then he tried it on his iPad; couldn’t remember passwords or passcodes, on and on). They’ve basically lost confidence in navigating using their guide book—sad, but I tried to help, but couldn’t. By the next morning, however, they had the app and the two tracks working on Patrice’s iPad.

The rocky path was so hard on my blister that it popped, but no blood, and I’m trying to make a Compeed stick after my shower. It doesn’t hurt—just worried that it’ll get infected. The day ended as one of the hardest because of the sharp rockiness—glad it’s over.

The first pic shows taking a break about a third of the way through.

Pics of several water sources along the way wanting to make their way down hill—made for muddy crossings.

I managed to leave by 7:45 AM with intentions of beating the heat. But the distance was so short, only 12 km (7.5 mi), that I arrived in the hill-top community of Spoleto before noon. Luck was with me; my hotel is at the bottom of the hill and it was ready within 15 minutes after arrival. And, big celebrations in nearly every square—a three-day “Spoleto in Bloom” festival.

Since I’ll have to climb the hill tomorrow anyhow, I mapped out all the sights to see except for the ones on the top. I started with the Spoleto Cathedral, Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, just a few hundred yards from my hotel. The Cathedral is Romanesque dating to the second half of 12th Century. Lots of activity in the square in front where an urban race was about to take place.

Next was Ponte Sanguinario ("bloody bridge"), a Roman bridge 1st century BCE. The name is traditionally attributed to the persecutions of Christians in the nearby amphiteatre. Then I walked up to the Roman Theater, now a museum of archeology where the stage was. The museum was great in putting the various tribes into perspective.

And lastly I visited a Roman House with well preserved mosaic floors. The thinking is that because of an inscription by Polla to Emperor Caligula that the house was that of Vespasia Polla, the mother of Emperor Vespasian (1st cent AD).

It’s hitting the low 80s, and tomorrow even the high 80s. Luckily, much of the route meanders under the shade of trees. The walk of 20 km (12.5 mi) with a climb here and there took me through the scenic, medieval town of Trevi. I read its history in a handout, “Trevi Footsteps”—so colorful and going back to 450 BC! Today, tourists and pilgrims pass through paying their homage to Trevi—and I did so with a beer in their little square. Any town that survives for 2500 years gets my respect.

Met a Brazilian pilgrim yesterday and met him again on the trail—we rested before the last push up to Trevi and then had a beer together.  Afterwards we parted because he had to walk further than I did and on a slightly different route since hotels were totally booked in Campello sul Clitunno. Our paths may cross again.

A common theme of these days’ walks is passing through olive orchards. They range in age from newly planted to surely over a hundred. The bar in terms of age is still the one I saw in the Garden of Gethsemane in Jerusalem dating to the time of Jesus—never realized that olive trees could reach several thousand years.

I just didn’t want to leave Assisi; I made one more stop at the Basilica of Santa Clara (at nearly the opposite end of Assisi’s Basilica of St. Francis). She was one of the first followers of St Francis and founded the Order of Poor Ladies, later renamed the Order of Saint Clare (Poor Clares). As I was leaving, crowds of visitors came through the city’s entrance. I had before me 20 km (12.5 mi) and mostly descents as I headed to Foligno.

At the 13-km mark, I entered the hillside hamlet of Spello. Tourists abounded, and I took it all in during a gelato break in their main square. It was lovely to walk through, but the temperature was already pushing to 80! I managed to soak my micro fleece towel with water at about an hour out of Assisi and wrapped it around my neck. It’s quite helpful in keeping me cool.

Couldn’t make it in one fell swoop and still have time/energy to see a pharmacist / doctor about my heel, check into the hotel, and get my Testimonium at the St. Francis Basilica Pilgrim’s Office. So, I stopped after 16 km (10 mi) and climbing about 1500 ft, had lunch, and waited two hours for a bus that everyone was trying to tell me wasn’t coming. He finally came, and I was the only passenger. He didn’t have his ticket machine set up, so I traveled free. He saved me another 13 km (8 mi), but most importantly another 1500 ft of climbing. Although from where he dropped me off in Assisi, I still had about 300 ft to climb!

The pharmacist couldn’t help me, but said that I’d have better luck at tomorrow’s destination—it’ll be a bigger city. After my shower, I came to realize that I have a blister in this very awkward place on the side of my heel. That’s not a showstopper!

In a nutshell, Assisi is amazing. I thought Gubbio (2 towns back) was hilly, but Assisi tops them all—steep and narrow streets—and very medieval looking. I only spent time at the St Frances Basilica to get my Testimonium and attend a special pilgrims’ benediction mass—very beautifully done. The only other pilgrim I knew was the British fellow who actually lives here. I include one pic from the outside, and one I grabbed from the internet of the inside.

Interesting crucifix I saw on the way. And the view of Assisi at a distance.

I did 22 km (14 mi) and 2940 ft of climbing on a great walking day despite drizzle for the first 3 hrs or so. About an hour out from Gubbio, I came across a stream that I opted not to cross and circumnavigated it on “county” roads. The side of my left heel had been tender all day, so it was a good decision for more than one reason—I couldn’t have tolerated a rocky path. At the end of the day, I discovered what felt like a bone spur on the left side of the heel—very unusual place. They’re either on the bottom of the heel (fasciitis related) or at back of heel (Achilles tendinitis related). I’ll use mole skin tomorrow to see if I can keep the tenderness down—we’ll see. At any rate, I’m disappointed and hope it doesn’t get ...

A fallout from my decision to circumnavigate the stream crossing is that I came across a restaurant and just at the right spot, but it was closed. So I eat the sandwich I made at breakfast and had one of my bottles of water with it while sitting at one of their tables outside. As I was getting to leave, the owner opened the place (despite it being his day of closure) and made me a cappuccino. We got to know each other—I him, more than he me. But we touched each other’s souls. He had a business in NYC, but came back home to Italy right after 9/11. Business here was good, until the freeway (autostrada) took cars from the county road away—typical Route 66 syndrome! Now he can’t make his mortgage payment. Meanwhile he became immersed in spiritualism and got to know one of the Indian gurus—his restaurant reflects his spiritual beliefs. Quite a guy—I really felt for him.

Lodging tonight is at an Agriturismo B&B with three or four others staying here. The pictures certainly paint a resortsy atmosphere—but that may only be at the surface? A pool area, vineyards surround us, and a beautiful landscapes!

The journey was 25 km (15,6 mi) and 2570 ft. and made for a tiring day. Coming out of the Agriturismo lodging, I continued walking up the hill rather than going down and essentially climbing back up. Although the temp hugged the high 70s with good cloud cover, it still seemed warm, and I consumed at least three quarts of water.

With all climbing behind me but still 10 km ahead, I ran into a cool water source with spigot. Not only did I use it to cool down, but I guzzled a quart and a half of water on the spot—it tasted so incredibly good!

The city of Gubbio is built on the side of a hill and its history goes back to the Bronze Age. In fact, they discovered the Iguvine Tablets that probably date to the third century BC—they’re a rich source of history and language of the early Umbrian people. Nothing like it exists, except in Asia. I spotted a Roman theater and the medieval walls give it a feeling it’s been around for a while.

I included a picture of the crucifix because they’re often seen at such special places with commanding views.

This covers two nights at the Hotel le Mure because the distance between the two cities is 31 km (19.4 mi)—a little bit much for one day. Since it was very hard communicating with the driver through the English-speaking receptionist, I gave up on the idea that the driver would pick me up after a one-way walk. I didn’t trust that he could find me, so on the first day, Sunday, I headed to the next day’s destination and ended up walking 16 km (10 mi) round trip—a cushy walk with nearly empty backpack while enjoying the scenery.

On that walk I became aware of the Umbrian custom of growing olives next to their vineyards—this dates back thousands of years and is called “coltura promiscua.” They really complement each other in terms of ripening time, similarity of processing procedure, and infrastructure. Mixed farming of the two crops may have other benefits: the Umbrian practice of coltura promiscua was credited with regional resistance to phylloxera!

At the end of the first day, I explored Citta di Costello and ran into a German walking buddy I met about a week ago—it was the two-night stay that enabled meeting him. He had meanwhile chummed up with three other German ladies.

Today I headed out from the hotel with a Dutch couple to a “midway” point that allowed us to continue to Pietralunga. Although they had their luggage shipped and walked with day packs, I soon left them behind me. My lodging at Pietralunga is a Agriturismo stay—not sure what qualifies it as such. I always likened it to a farm stay, but today’s stay isn’t even close. Before finding it on the outskirts of town, I stopped for a beer at the local bar and used their toilet. I was surprised to find an Asian-style fixture—only the second one of that kind while on the road—never in any of my lodgings. It was explained that they used to be popular and are quite costly to change out so they just leave them. They’re usually in the unisex toilets.

pics comments:
dog that first chased me and barked at me, then befriended me and walked with me about half a mile!
you see the bricks used in Città—only good building material
my luxury hotel room in Citta

This blog covers both Friday, the 25th (San Sepolcro to Citerna) and Saturday, the 26th (Citerna to Citta di Costello)

Friday was an easier day (13 km—8 mi and climbed 918 ft). Today, Saturday, seemed very hard (20 km—12 mi and climbed 2680 ft). The temp has been hitting mid-80s and it’s made a difference. Conditions otherwise have been astounding: no rain, very little mud, good walking paths, and some shade here and there.

Because of the heat and the hills, I’ve had to slow down my pace, and so I’m walking 8 to 9 hrs—but it’s all still fun. Especially when trail angels appear. After the first of three hills this morning there suddenly appears in the middle of nowhere a very rustic hotel. I walked in and asked if they were open, and the owner just served me another breakfast—first one was really skimpy anyway. She couldn’t put enough food in front of me—and only charging me 5 Euros. It’s kindness like that that keeps you going. Then I met the only couple that stayed there (Dutch)—we had fun leapfrogging each other.

Also learned that most residences in remote areas are only occupied March to November—too much snow, and these gravelly roads aren’t cleared.

Today I covered 25 km (15.6 mi) and climbed some 1650 ft. It was a marvelous hiking day: no mud, no rain, not too many rocky paths, and no slippery places. I struggled with the last third energy-wise, maybe because it reached the high 70s and I was a bit tight on water—I expected some water sources on the last third that never materialized. Finally just outside of my destination town I found a bar/cafe and guzzled a liter of Powerade.

Much of the route along the middle of the way hugged the rolling hills of Tuscany—I felt the rare essence of solitude and serenity. The landscape consumed me, as I did it—we bonded—no one else around. No houses close by, no arable land, no vineyards, just spotty forests and wild grasses. This is the priceless quintessence of a pilgrimage that one never forgets. And I may never experience that euphoria again on this Camino—that’s OK—today was worth it. That was “the hole-in-one” that keeps the golfer coming back.

By the way, this city, Sansepolcro, has a fantastic 1000-year history and a crazy reason why it was spared damage in WW II. That’s for another place and time.

Last evening, a well-intentioned deed turned disastrous. While trying to confine my muddy clothes to the bathroom, specifically the shower, I needed to sit to remove my socks. Of course, on top of the toilet cover—well, it cracked into dozens of pieces and left me wondering how I could explain this in Italian! This morning came the time of reckoning—and luckily, the owner spoke German and settled for 20 Euros. To all you pilgrims out there who might be staying in a hotel, let this be a lesson!

So with a clean conscience, I started the route of 16 km (10 mi) and 1600 ft of climb. And with only a light drizzle it made for a reasonable day—although rocky trails, mud, and slippery paths were about the same as yesterday. 

The special treat at my destination is Michelangelo’s birth house and the museum that surrounds it. Known as Caprese’s Castle, it’s situated atop a hill with 360 deg view of the valleys (one pic shows a sample view). They have a respectable collection of copies and casts of his sculptures—you’ll recognize the one I chose.