After taking a 9:00AM ferry to the island of Brač, I walked 16 miles (25.5 km) with a 1500 ft climb over about half of the distance. That’s the end of my Croatian walk: 115 miles. Super tired, but found enough energy to walk down the hill for a dinner and a little wine. Am actually posting this the next day because it turns out that it’s not easy to get to Split, back on the mainland. I wasn’t going to opt for a 6:30 AM catamaran and miss breakfast; so I’m now taking a bus at 1:00 PM across the island and then a ferry to Split.

Here are some impressions: leaving Maskara; walking right next to vineyards; lots of cyclists on the last part of walk; my first view of Bol—I was elated because with the late ferry start, I didn’t finish until nearly 5:00PM which made for a long day; beautiful restaurant and view in Bol; here’s what much of the uphill terrain looked like—very rocky.

Great day, although I feared for rain, only to be surprised by sunshine. Covered 12 miles (19 km) and am nearing the end of the road walking in Croatia.  Tomorrow I catch the ferry to the island of Brac (c with mark over it) and then walk 25 km and climb 1500 ft before descending to the coastal town of Bol from where I catch another ferry the following day to Split.

I was really impressed with the town of Tucepi (c with mark over it) in terms of all the action going on. Most of the riviera is still asleep but work is going on everywhere in preparation for the summer onslaught of tourists. It’s unbelievable how many signs you see advertising rooms and apartments (I’ve been renting the small apartmani).

Some pics for the day: the sign advertises the town of Tucepi; first view of Makarska; how I felt about the whole trip, just like the car getting a wash! And lastly, some of the “trail” actually getting down to the water as it did in Tucepi. Yes, LUCKY ME!

When I can actually pronounce the town I’m staying in, it may be time to come home—ha, ha! Best walking day by far, considering that nearly half was on a walking trail or small road next to the water. The 12 miles took me nearly 6 hours with lots of “smelling of roses.”

Here are my impressions: This breakfast was to die for—I finished all of it or it got packed for my lunch; I watched this young lady pick up the moth now on her sleeve—an incredible example of mimicry—just look at its spread wings that look like a monster; dates along the path;  and the next two showing the dedicated path I was on; finally, one of several stops to enjoy the riviera with a beer. Basically, it’s still much too early for their tourist season. You can see preparations everywhere as they get the places ready. None of the restaurants are open here in Živogošće, so I went to the grocery store and for $10 bought my next three meals!

Only 10 miles (16 km) climbing into the coastal hills should have been easier than it was—mainly spillover from too much yesterday. In the coastal hills there were lovely fresh-water lake settings, the kind you picture in Austria or Switzerland. The welcome sign to the Gradac Riviera stopped me in my tracks because it challenged me to enjoy the beachfront, by myself. So after getting settled in my Booking.com apartment, I headed down to the water to try my best at enjoying it. With a glass of wine in hand I leaned back and took it all in, even though it is a bit early in the tourist season.

My impressions: after a steep climb, I couldn’t resist rewarding myself with fresh-squeezed orange juice and an omelette (I was the only one in this bus-stop type restaurant); then my explanation as why the road was so empty (a parallel interstate route became available); one of several freshwater lake scenes; the Gradac Riviera pebbly beach (I like our sand better) and lastly, my genuine attempt to enjoy the Riviera with a glass of wine —it was very pretty!

After a 19-mile (31 km) trek up into the coastal range and down again, my biggest quandary: how do you tell the difference between reaching your limit and exceeding it (no, there was no winery down that road)??? It was a beautiful day and I did one of those two—not sure which. After a beer on the house where I’m staying, the young lady offered to take my backpack to my room and I never objected—that’s a sign I was totally exhausted!

After coming down from the coastal hills, the road skirted an area similar to the Oxnard Plain just filled with citrus groves. A funny thing though: there must have been 50 fruit stands all selling about the same thing: bags and bags of oranges and orange products—all clones. Yet, this is not orange season. I tried to get it out of them where these oranges came from. Finally, one came clean and told me these are last year’s crop stored in the basement! Such is life!

Some impressions: Day can’t go wrong when you start your first cup of coffee served in a Julius Meinl cup (from Vienna, of course); just let this picture sink in—a wine tasting drive-through—what else could it be??; This is what beat me up early on; the orange stand clones!

Today took me 14 miles (22.4 km) along the Croatian Coast to the Bosnia–Herzegovina (BH) town of Neum. How did that happen? Well, BH has access to the Adriatic Sea consisting of about 12 miles (20 km) and I just happened to pick my overnight stay here in BH. It’s hard to imagine the turmoil in this region after Yugoslavia broke up, so to speak after peace broke out in Germany in 1989. One by one, the Soviet countries sued for independence. But Yugoslavia had its special ethnic problems that finally ended in 1995 with the signing in Paris of the peace accords that were drafted in Dayton OH. The region appears fairly stable now and BH has applied for EU membership.

The day was super windy with dangerous gusts threatening to blow me into oncoming traffic—at several points I had to change to the other side. Tomorrow will be longer but calmer.

Stopped by this makeshift oyster processing platform and got the fellow to chuck 6 oysters that I devoured in no time—yummy!

Here are some impressions of the day: first, the fishermen working the oysters, second, a view of the wall over yesterday’s town of Ston, thirdly, my six oysters, and lastly, entering the town of Neum where I’m staying at a Booking.com apartment.

After 13 miles (21 km), I arrived at a marvelous tourist-laden town of Ston. Because of its flourishing salt-bed business and oyster farming (you can see the oyster farming in the pic of the bay) the city needed protection from invaders. In 1461, a 1200-meter wall was commissioned that one can see on entering the twin towns of Ston and Little Ston (Mali Ston). I tried to capture a bit of the wall.

Buses by the dozen drop off their passengers who then flood the eateries and gift shops. By sunset, I expect a sleepy little town.

Early in my walk, I came on a roadside grave (similar to the one in the picture) with a middle-aged man and two young ladies weeping over the burning candles. All were dressed in black. As he waved at me across the road, I stopped and briefly prayed with them, then waved and continued on. In that short time, I felt their grief and deeply bonded with them—total strangers that they were. When they drove off, they waved to me, and I to them. How remarkable this brief encounter was and how it touched me—it made me recall the most difficult duty I had while in the service back in Omaha of bringing the sad news to families of the loss of someone dear to them as the locally appointed Army casualty assistance officer.

Short day at only about 8 miles (13 km) but started out in panic mode because both reservations cancelled on me and I had to wing it. On arrival, the first place I asked wasn’t ready for the season yet—oh, oh, I thought. Second place and all went well—a restaurant with rooms upstairs. After getting settled, I walked to the Marina restaurant where I was told they had lamb—my Easter Dinner Celebration.

First pic of typical lagoon setting that’s a common sight along the way. They say Croatia has a thousand islands—of course counting every rock protruding out of the water. Second pic is view from my little hotel room, and third pic is my Easter Celebration. As Rose so aptly deduced: “Pretty scenery, great wines, delicious food, happy people. Life is good in Croatia.” Yeah, verily!

Fabulous first day walking about 14 miles north on the coast  starting from Dubrovnik with sunny weather in low 70s. Had to share the road with lots of vehicles, but  there was usually just enough shoulder for me. Saw no cyclists or other walkers and the road, although paralleling the coast, was usually along cliffs some 300 ft above the water.

I discovered why Dubrovnik was overflowing with tourists. On the north side of town I spotted two 5000-passenger cruise ships parked and buses still lined up. Hope they all enjoy it as much as I did—a fabulous experience and my hostel had a perfect location.

Treated myself to a scrumptious grilled fish lunch half way to celebrate the day. Afterwards, I hit upon a serene ‘91 war memorial in the shadow of a huge tree where I paid my respects. The hosts here at the AirB&B are so lovely and attentive. The host had served in that war for three years an illuminated it for me from his angle. The Bosnian/Herzegovina Army and Navy had Dubrovnik surrounded and were trying to starve them. The city had small boats trying to resupply it at night—he was involved with that operation.

My last day had two quests: (1) understand and feel the Croatian War of Independence and (2) do side-by-side wine tasting of the ancient Zinfandel (Krljanek) and their modern offspring Plavec Mali—success! The photojournalist exhibit on the wars that led to the Yugoslavian disintegration was marvelous and the wine tasting was a real treat, something not possible in the States—we’ll see! Here are a few pics of the day.

The before and after shot from the square just 50 yards from my hostel impressed me, but also some of the other war torn scenes.

And then there’s the coup of side-by-side old and new Zinfandel grapes—what a treat. This wine bar was the real treat

Sightseeing all day, starting with a 1+ hr walking tour with 10 other sightseers—all here in Old Town. How do you cull 31 pics to 3 or 4? Big scenes not my Julius Meinl coffee cup for breakfast that gave me a warm feeling of connectedness! My hostel, within two blocks of the first picture, is right in the center of Old Town that totally swarms with tourists—at mid afternoon I had to get away from it all, so I walked a mile uphill to rub shoulders so to speak with locals.

The shore here is very steep and full of cliffs that have their own character. A little harbor at the south end was busy with sightseeing boats full of tourists.

First partial day in Dubrovnik—beautiful, overflowing with tourists. The cruise ships don’t help any. Will take my first tour tomorrow morning. My hostel is in Old Town—inside the walls, in the middle of everything. These pics give my first impressions:

Had a good flight LAX to London, then walked 4.5 miles to the Hotel—best option to get some exercise after a long flight and avoid paying 20£ for a cab since the hotel had no pickup from the airport (only to the airport). It was a bit difficult over some stretches that had no shoulder!

It’s off to Croatia tomorrow morning with a British Air flight at 6:45am.

Just patiently waiting to board the plane in the picture (Norwegian Boeing 787) in about 20 minutes for a 7:30 PM departure to London, Gatwick Airport. Am staying overnight near the airport and catching a British Airways on Wednesday for Dubrovnik, Croatia. All’s well.

Four more days to go until I board my Norwegian flight at LAX London-bound. Had a nice visit to Santa Barbara yesterday where I picked up Lucille and we headed up to Fess Parker Winery. Discovered that Marcy Parker had just passed away--91 years old. That gave us pause! Here are a few pics at lunch and at the winery afterwards (flag at half staff).

Hiked with Belle from Ventura to Ojai a gentle uphill 15.5 mile trail, starting at about 6:15 in the morning—nice and cool for much of the walk. Our destination was the Ojai Beverage Company with 50 some brews on tap—what a reward!

Had a great hike on Saturday, the 6th of April with our SoCal Folks going from LA’s Farmers Market up to Runyon Canyon Park. A shell ceremony was celebrated where this pic was taken (the Hollywood sign is tee-tiny off to the right).

Afterwards most of the 37 hikers met at Farmers Market to enjoy their food, beer/drinks and above all our camaraderie.

Tried to get tickets on-site for the Galleria Borghese, but none was available until a Thursday window. Then we gave it one more try through the Marriott close by and that bombed, too. Oh well, we’ll plan better next time. Kurtis (my grandson) and Jesse (my granddaughter-in-law and I had a drink and cheese platter at Harry’s Bar across the street from the Marriott and close to the entrance to the Borghese Gardens. After that, we walked over to the Spanish Steps and the Church at the top of the steps.

From there we sauntered to the Pantheon and went inside with what seemed like thousands of others. Beautiful dome and chapels all around the inside of the Pantheon, which now functions as a Catholic church.

Then back to my Trastevere lodging (by tram) and a little lunch with M&M, and then rest. In the evening we went to the nearby Ristorante Sabatini for a wonderful Father’s Day dinner.

THIS WILL BE MY LAST BLOG FOR MY ITALIAN CAMINO! IT’S BEEN A WONDERFUL TRIP—AN EXPERIENCE OF A LIFETIME!

Comments on pics:
1. At Harry’s Bar
2. Entrance to Borghese Garden Grounds
3. Top of Spanish Steps
4. Looking at St Peter’s from Spanish Steps
5. Down Spanish Steps
6. Inside Pantheon
7+8. At Dinner.

15 June—Friday (Rome) Took a tour this morning of the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and St Peter’s. So much beautiful art—hard to get your arms around it.

Transferred my backpack to new lodging in the Trastevere District, The Corner Eight. After an afternoon’s rest we walked over to Trevi Fountain—I think thousands of other people had this idea. Must be the same ones that have followed us to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel, etc. Somebody tell them to stop. Enough already!

Comments on pics:
1. K&J inside St Peter’s
2.Pieta in St Peter’s
3. Next three inside Vatican Museum
4. Statue of St Peter in St Peter’s
5. Waiting to start tour of Vatican Museum

Last Blog covering my 48-day Camino, a part of Via Roma (Innsbruck to Padua) and part of Via Fracigena (Florence to Rome).

Can’t be more excited than this: two beautiful Testimonia of Completion (Assisi and Rome) and the successful arrival of grandson Kurtis and his wife Jesse. Thanks to all whose well wishes helped me through each day to build the momentum it took to finish 48 of them—and some not so easy at that. All the days, however, melt into an incredible memorable experience. I’m ever so grateful.

After our get together, we thought we’d take a hop-on-hop-off bus to try to keep Jesse and Kurtis awake, and get an overview of the city at the same time. It worked, and they persevered! Unfortunately, the Roman storm clouds showed us what they can do. Fortunately, by the time we disembarked for a coffee break, it was pretty well over. Except for a little rain in tomorrow’s forecast, it looks like sunny skies await us.