Brutal day: started w/36deg cold, but sunny getting all the way to 46 deg (Eddie loves the cold). Walked 14 miles, and felt it (am not yet in a groove, but am getting there; maybe another week. Everything aches, but I expected that. The good news is that we gained another day on our itinerary.

We walked again on a no-shoulder highway to avoid yesterday's mud. Trucks are fabulously polite, changing lanes to avoid us--impressive. We theorize that the highway is a better semblance of the Via Regia than some zig-zag route through ag fields.

Eddie again has penetrated the ecclesiastical network and landed a nearly new Catholic School / Nuns' Residence (same building) for overnight lodging and meals. One young nun speaks English perfectly and she as well as the Mother Superior are most hospitable. They're all astounded by our goals! Six-o'clock mass after a scrumptious meal rounded out our day.

At the center of Lancut is the Castle, one of the most beautiful aristocratic residences in Poland dating back to the early 16 hundreds. We passed by (see the pic) but had no time to visit!

The picture of the church (ext & Int) were the starting point of asking for lodging for two needy pilgrims.

We learned our lesson avoiding mud yesterday, so we clung onto the highway route, a US 101 type route with an 8-inch shoulder! Most vehicles changed lanes to avoid us and/or keep from spritzing on us. Still drizzling all day and the temperature dropped to 43 deg F.

When we arrived at Przeworsk, we waited a bit at one of the churches, and like many, the interior was locked except for an antechamber that allowed you to kneel, peek through, and pray (see pic). The kilometer marker has us tallying a good distance (today another 15 km--9 mi.)

Lucasz arranged for us a stay at another Benedictine Monastery for Nuns, but not without feeding us a scrumptious lunch/dinner. Also learned that Lucasz has his doctorate ABD, scheduled for his final oral defense in June (dissertation is on the Polish Camino Neteork of some 5000 km).

Looking forward tomorrow to sunshine and warmer weather.

Still one day ahead of schedule, we trekked a bit over 9 miles during a drizzle from the very start. We sloshed through muddy paths going between fields, but vowed to stay on paved roads, especially after falling in the mud.

The day started with our hosting pastor introducing Eddie and me at mass and mentioning that we were the first pilgrims and first Americans in his church (built, incidentally, in 1699!). After a huge breakfast and sandwiches made to go, we basically headed north to Jaroslaw, a city founded in 1031. The pastor had called ahead to arrange a room at the Monastery of the Benedictine Sisters founded in 1611. Our Spartan room (that makes a Motel 6 seem luxurious) is rather modern belying the cloister's erection on 1635! We're on grouds surrounded by defensive walls with eight observation towers. Although we'd like to see more, our chores of washing clothes and removing today's mud left little time. Just happy to look outside at one of those towers.

The first pic shows our host last night in front of the church's altar, a close-up of damage the Ottomans wreaked on a side door while trying to break into the church looking for gold (1700s some time) and a sampler of our mud encounter. The second pic shows the entrance to the monastery, one of the towers and a glimps at modern austerity.

We finished day 1 with a sumptuous dinner of typically Polish cuisine, just like my on-line language course, Babel, drilled me: creamy tomato soup, pierogis, and Szarlotka (apple pie with merangue on top). (For 2 people and a beer, total bill: $17). And as a curiosity, the US Ambassador to Poland seemed to enjoy several of the same sites that we did at the same time: the Archcathedral and the main square at which we ate! No, there was no opportunity to exchange greetings.

Second day was a killer, but we had to do it to up our game. We blew through the planned 2d day goal and strove straight for the 3rd day goal, so now we're ahead a day. Took 11 miles to get here, to Rokietnica, and we opted to try the Parish Church and were welcomed by the pastor. We were invited to stay in a guest room.

The house keeper fixed us an opulent lunch: meat dumplings in gravy, a type of barley grain, home-made claw, and an ample selection of cakes for dessert--unbelievable hospitality.

Most of the way was well waymarked with the exception of one point where there was a new fence that "lost" the arrow. That caused a half-mile overshoot--we took it in stride. Rapeseed fields are in near-full bloom lining the landscape with yellow carpets. Occasional homes showed off large crucifixes or mini-chapels in their front yards compelling one to stop and pay brief respects.

The way was mostly along no-shoulder country roads, but occasionally meandered through what seemed like virgin forests still crackling with winter foliage on the ground. And, of course, a plethora of hurdles challenged us (see the pic).

JFK, then Oslo, on to Warsaw (with overnight at the very modern Caritas Center (for pilgrims, et al), and ending on the 21st of Apr. with a 7-hr train ride to the south-eastern Polish city of Przemysl.

Today our first walking day, we intended to walk the 15 km (9 mi) from Medyka to Przemysl but in fact went in reverse--better logistics. When we arrived in the border village of Medyka, we were welcomed by the two Parish Priests, one of whom opened the wooden church built in 1607, but it's no longer in use since a new, much grander one was built next to it (just compare altars in the two pics). In 1997, the new church was dedicated by the Polish Pope John Paul II (since canonized in 2014). As you can see, the church also marks the 4053 km (2000+ miles) to Santiago!

Eddie, my Polish travel partner through Poland, and I are staying at the PTTK hostel in Przemysl for the second night (the night's stay is a far cry from the one in Warsaw). This city has a rich history going back to the 8th century. WW I & II had significant impacts on the city--e.g., the Molotov Line split the city in half in WW II between Russia and Germany.

Here we are at JFK, Eddie and Kurt, waiting for our flight to Warsaw via Oslo. Lots of waiting around and we can't wait to get started.

On Sunday, April 2nd, 44 hikers of the So Cal Chapter of the American Pilgrims on the Camino trekked through 11 miles through the Santa Monica mountains. Belle, Marla and I guided one group while Geoff and Claudine guided a second group. Everyone had a great time: super weather and scenery; scrumptious picnic afterwards; and a Buen Camino cake, Tarta de Santiago, card, and bottle of Marques de Riscal, Reserva, to help send me off on my trek in 15 days--THANK YOU SO MUCH TO EVERYONE!!!

Here's the first picture of Eddie who will join me on the Polish segment of the Via Regia where he'll get to use his Polish language skills. It'll be a dynamite adventure. You'll note he's standing in front of two icons: the White House and Hollywood!

Lots of preparations to go before leaving for JFK on April 18 where I'll meet up with my Polish email friend Eddie and we begin an awesome hike of the Via Regia, the Polish Segment. I dare say, few Americans have traveled this route, and without Eddie's knowledge of Polish it would have been orders of magnitude more difficult for me--a ton of thanks. Here's a picture of Kurt doing a 11-mile, 2000+ ft climb in nearby Santa Monica Mountains trying to get into shape.

Last day. And cut my plan short by two days because of the train strikes. Made reservations a few days ago just to be sure. Plan to spend two extra days in Copenhagen.

Today amounted to 18 mi and 1000 ft climb (29 km and 317 m), much through blossoming trees and lush forests and some great views of towns below. Arrival at Eisenach was by train (as per plan, since they wanted you to take the 5-min train ride to avoid highway).

At Eisenach, am staying at a very Spartan Lutheran hostel that's part of a charity / care facility. Made up for the Spartan side by splurging at the Wein Haus (bottom right of pic), still a part of the original entry into the city now being renovated. Of course, Luther had a connection and hence large statue.

My first time to any of these towns in the former DDR, and they give me an impression of still struggling to go from the state economy to a market economy. Impressions derive from the many restaurants and stores that I find closed. During DDR times, there was little emphasis on refurbishing historical buildings, but lots of effort has been made in the last 25 years to turn that around. Therefore, many of the beautiful pictures owe their beauty to recent infusions of funds!

Erfurt's cathrdral was most impressive even though it was too early to go inside. The other buildings on cathedral plaza and the massive stone foundations of the cathedral were equally imptessive. Just had to add the IKEA presence (my second on the Via Regia).

The next two pics on top became cmon sites along the way, and the bottom two pics are of the Augustinian  Cloister Hostel where I'm staying here in Gotha (dating back to 1258, but heavily renovated into a modern single-room hostel facility) and my view down to the old arcade.

Took over 30 pictures at Buchenwald. Which do you pick and what do you say? It was very moving and I spent over 3 hrs, half on a guided tour.

Buchenwald was the third largest concentration camp, based on the Dachau model (near Munich). For men only, it was a work camp to support the defense industry, including making parts for the V2. The Americans knew that so they heavily bombed the camp--nothing of the factories remains.

Whereas some of the work camps coaxed inmates to take a shower for disinfection, here they were told they'll be measured for something, then shot in the neck from behind (See pic with two doors).

Some 250,000 inmates passed through here between '37 and '45 when Patton's Army liberated the camp; of those some 56,000. perished. Here they had their equivalent of Dr. Mengele, a Dr, Otto, who performed unimaginable operations, all without anesthetic (shown is his operating table). After the war, he himself was found guilty and executed at his own camp. The camp was also used to train SS troops for six-month sessions whereafter they were sent to other camps--Buchenwald, alone, had some 136 subcamps! The two-story bldgs with cars in front were their quarters. The gate in the pic was the entrance to the camp and the gate inscription "For each his own (what he deserves)." Also shown on the bottom right are the commander's   quarters--all the original buildings.

Went 28.1 km (17,4 mi) to get to a hostel and be closer to the next day's goal of Buchenwald on way to Erfurt. Had the church all to myself on this wee town of Stedten with some 150 people. Interesting pics along the way include: use of horse-drawn plow; Buttlesdtedt church (not where I stayed--just interesting); wheel used to press plants that were used for blue dye (before indigo came along); picture of church where I slept.

Easy day of 12.6 mi (20.3) and 770 ft climb throughout the morning. Arrived at the church at about 2:00--preacher's house was open, so I left my backpack off and went searching for food. Nearly everything was closed, so I ended up walking another 3 miles round trip to a store.

The hostel was good--everything you needed was there and this morning the local bakery served coffee at 7:00 and goodies, too.

Interesting pics along the way: a sign you'd easily miss from 20 ft away and the farmer's way of fixing pot holes (works for tractors but not walkers). Also, the end product of the rapeseed plants.

Railway strike is on and I will have to adjust my plans. Will try to catch bus instead of train--we'll see.

Only walked 14+ km (9 mi) today, but what an adventure. Naumburg has a fantastic cathedral where I spent several hours--I didn't want to leave, so I had lunch just outside the cathedral; it's also a world heritage site.  The cathedral dates back to the 13th century, an excellent late Romanesque showpiece. But Naumburg Castle itself dates back to around 1000 AD when one of the most powerful men of the eastern Holy Roman Empire, Margrave Eckard I of Meissen, erected his residence here. Again, primarily because this was the crossroads of important trading routes that needed defense.

Although I wanted to achieve more mileage today, as I passed through Rossbach, I noticed a St Michaels House, a youth training and education center with 60 beds and more mattresses. I couldn't miss that. I stopped in and the lady in the kitchen set me up, then even prepared coffee for me and cut me s piece of cake intended for tomorrow; she gave me the pilgrim room. What a reception!

The pics are from the cathedral and of the St. Michaels House:

At less than 10 km (6 mi), I'm actually already at my scheduled goal for the day and it's only noon. I'll go a bit farther and be into tomorrow's schedule. This morning (Sunday) was full of cyclists in the wine valley along the Unstrut (known as the Unstrut Wine Road). I encountered one vineyard after the next planted on steep grades. And just before Naumberg, I crossed the Saale by ferry (the Unstrut becomes the Saale).

Here are some pictures from this morning that hope to capture the picturesque scenery. The view into the town is still Freyburg and the church is from there as well. Dixieland Jazz sign is for Lucille--yet another venue for her favorite music. The close up of Noah is one of many biblical scenes under the high wine estate--it's "proof" that Noah was the first vintner with grapes in his right hand!!!

Can't believe that 2/3 of my journey is over at the end of today. So far, it's been a marvelous adventure: a snapshot of how the DDR (the former eastern Germany) has evolved over the last 25 years, an immersion into over a 1000+ years of history into this part of Europe and a kingly protected road (the Via Regia) that leads directly to Santiago (known here as the Jakob's Weg=Camino de Santiago).

Last 24 hours was about being full of opposites: sun in the morning today and drizzly in the PM; couldn't find any internet in the morning or last night and tonight I have two (both free); must have gotten lost about four times today, but found my way each time; slept in a real pilgrim style last night (no shower and no laundry) and splurged in high cotton tonight at a wine lovers 3-star hotel on the vineyard slopes of Freyburg (just showered and did my laundry). 20 miles with a blister on the ball of my foot made me do it!!!! I'll be good tomorrow again.

I promised myself while on some beautiful serene forest paths that I would take the first place to save myself some steps--I really didn't have such a nice place in mind (although the outside isn't much to look at because of external work). A huge banquet was in progress with DJ and a live band to boot. The picture brings out the contrast.

Covered 50 km yesterday, 22+ by streetcar to get to the other end of Leipzig and 27+ to get to this beautiful 1000-year old city of Merseburg. The hostel is where the organ used to be in  another church, the Neumarkt Church that dates back to 1188.

Along the way in the small town of Horburg, I passed the tearing sandstone Madonna that dates back to the 1250s. She so upset one of the 17th century Lutheran ministers that he had it "destroyed," but the pieces were later reassembled in the 1930s. The forest paths were decorated with blooming wild flowers.

Only one young couple here with me and the llamas three of us just barely made it into the cathedral built in 1015---tour groups flocked in and out all the while someone played the organ majestically for us, adding to the spirituality of the setting. BTW, Luther preached here in 1545!

And then you have Hugo looking over the church where the two of us slept--I actually felt honored to be there.

Saw and heard so, so much--an amazing city. Picked only three themes: first, one of the many "Passagen" that were used to let the carriages into the court to avoid people getting rained on (nowadays the passages in Europe are filled with shops!)--this one (Mädlerpassage) has Auerbachs Keller in it where Göthe composed Faust--this one is for you, Ruta--it'll bring back memories of your thesis!!!!

The second one is the Historical Events Forum that chronicled the years between 1949 (start of the DDR) and  1989 (the peaceful revolution). It was so well documented with pictures, sounds, clips, etc.

And last but perhaps most importantly the churches, Nikolai and Thomas. Bach was music director for both and peaceful processions were conducted between the two. Then on Oct 9, 89, it all crumbled--that day alone will move you! Nicolas is on top in the quad shot and Thomas on bottom where I heard a recital practice, that added to the emotion.

Back on the road tomorrow!

Walked 14 mi (23 km) to the easternmost edge of Leipzig. My blister slowed me down a little, but it'll have another day to rest. I took a break at a posh golf and country club--only one there at the restaurant. Easily found the church hostel in the community of Sommerfeld--the Lutheran Minister showed me around but apologized that I couldn't stay here a second night because a school group is coming tomorrow (Christ Ascension). Then he came up with the idea that I can sleep in the sacristy of the church--I now have the church key for tomorrow night! He spent so much time with me on Leipzig history and a bit on DDR times. (The pic is where I slept the first night--only one there; and the church for the second night--really cool--the whole church to myself!!)

I have so much to see at Leipzig beginning with the St. Nikolai Church where it ALL started to unravel for the DDR Party (the SED)! Some high official from the Central Committee  was quoted as saying: We had planned everything; were prepared for everything--just not for candles and prayers! Other HUGE players include Bach, Mendelssohn, Goethe, Napoleon, ...