Nice easy day of just 20 km (12 mi) of flat paths and roads just enough for one car--when two came, one needed to pull over to let the other pass. Interestingly I met a couple from Trier not far from the battery I had in 66/67. They stayed at the same Pension as I did last night and we met on the way and agreed to try to meet up tonight at the same hostel. Nice couple and we exchanged many ideas about the locals, east/west issues, and what's plaguing the region of the Via Regia. He was a trauma analyst for quite a while.

Our rooms are above a health store (creams, foods, anything "bio")--check out the picture. Got a small blister because I didn't remove a pebble soon enough--they gave me their last Compede--all fixed ... Saw some interesting farm operations--can only guess what they are.

Easy day of 20 km (12 mi) on nearly all farming service roads or field paths crossing through fields of grain and blooming yellow rapeseed. One scene seemed to compete with the next for the number of oohs and aahs. The field of red was new to me--I didn't have a name for them: foot-high plants with red thimble clusters of red flowering seeds.

Happy Mother's Day! No internet, but got a message out via cell/roaming--really frustrating that I was at a Telekom hit spot, but a private one (even called ATT international thinking something was wrong)!

At only 11 AM and only 11km into the day, I took an early lunch break at a fabulous restaurant in Roda (don't try to find these towns with probably fewer than 500 people). Place was already full with mothers being celebrated, but the owner gave me a special seat as an extension of the bar and a special pilgrim meal--there are some rewards!!!! The owner also explained why so many rapeseed fields: HUGE rapeseed (Raps) oil processing plant a few miles over the hill which I could see from a distance but didn't know what it was.

Several km before the end point, I found myself crossing the Elbe River by ferry--it seemed to be run "on demand." So at 30 km and not much of a climb, I easily found the hostel right next to the church (BTW, these are all Protestant churches), but couldn't find anyone to open it. After several inquisitions and over an hour wait, a nice lady came and saved my day. You can see the pictures of my two-story hostel I had all to myself.

Started the day with a visit to the bakery for some breakfast. Being Saturday, the day brought dozens of clients who wanted to stock up for the weekend--luckily I was fourth in line at 6:50!

Missed an arrow and went the wrong direction. A man came by and made me aware of it! I couldn't believe it. (The next day I discovered others have gotten lost in this area.) He was nice enough to drive me to where I should have been--probably still walked an extra few miles. All in all I probably walked about 32 km (19+ mi)--super tired. Walked through fabulous forests  with many hunters' towers and even a section that was just reclaimed from dense brush--also lots of rapeseed yellow fields.

Before leaving Kamenz, I was drawn into another church, this one turned into a museum with superb triptychs. On leaving the town, I began to climb steeply but was flanked by flowering rhododendrons--I was in a special rhododendron park! See pic.

My destination, Königsbrück (King's Bridge) at 17 mi. was first mentioned in 1248. Historically, it divided Bohemia from Saxony and has changed sides many times. And so the Via Regia was especially important here because of the tolls collected when travelers crossed the two kingdoms. The city itself grew on account of the tolls.

In DDR times, the Soviets had their SS-12 nuclear-tipped missiles stationed here. Institute for Space Medicine was also here -- Jähn, whose Space Museum I visited last week trained here.

Huge contrast with last night's Pension; it's mattress time. I was no worse for it! I was the only one there and heard the bells all night (but faintly). At 6 AM, they rang over 100 times. You had to get up. See second pic of my room and its view of the church at whose hostel I stayed--the priest was so accommodating!

Left the Pension promptly at 8 AM and made my way to Kamenz, the planned goal for yesterday, but only 5 km to go. Have spent nearly 2 hrs here--so much to see: a memorial for the many who died at that location under the NAZI regime and I got them to open just for me the main church, St Marien, built in 15th century and with famous wooden triptych of Mary. Famous author, Lessing wAs baptized here and his father was the preacher here. For the man in charge who let me in, Lessing's "Nathan the Wise One" was required reading as it was for me in college!!!

Am sitting in the main square with fabulous Rathaus (city hall) and adjoining market place--I could stay here all day!

Last evening I just had to treat myself to a Sorbian dinner at an extremely popular Sorb restaurant and only 10 minutes away from the hostel. What a delight--I ordered a 3-course typical wedding dinner with main course being thinly sliced roast beef in a creamy horseradish sauce with boiled potatoes and veggies. It doesn't sound special but tasted great--and with superp presentation. The ambiance was designed to take you to one of their vaulted old restaurants in the basement where they stored the food and ate it as well. A 50+ tour group came as I was midway through and four other groups of 7 to 10 filled the place (see pic).

Today was extremely windy which I'll blame on my not making a turn and losing about 2 mi--oh well. All signs are  bilingual: Ger and Sorb. After some 11 miles, I needed a break, but no stores all along the way and no restaurants. Then to my surprise came a pilgrim oasis: actually a house with pilgrim accommodations, the lady just left goodies of all kinds on a table at the side of the house along with a little box for contributions--a real trail angel. I had hot tea with cake and cookies and apples.

Also, so so many religious statues along the way in fields and in front of houses. Took one of the Greek monk Cyril (responsible for Cyrillic language and spread of Christianity here and eastward.

After 17 miles, I opted to shorten my day by a few miles and picked a Pension because no one was home at a 26-bed hostel. Glad I did. Again no restaurants, so the owner cooked me a simple, but tasty dinner!

The "I" told me their hostel is the second oldest in Germany--I was game. Although modern inside, the hostel's age derives from the 1000+ year old tower that's integrated with it (see the pic). After checking into the Youth Hostel (that alone made me feel young), I marched through the town by the old city hall (Rathaus) to their famous Stasi Prison. This is where political prisoners during the DDR times were incarcerated under horrible conditions--Bautzen became an icon for such political incarceration. The March 1950 insurrection by the prisoners became known as the "Yellow Misery," yellow because of the color of the surrounding wall. Brutality ran rampant. The visit immersed me into solemn times. As I entered the prison, a special exhibit took you through Germany's history from WWI through today-- a good refresher and at the same time seeing their point of view (I didn't see too much revisionism)!

This is the city hall; the above is a government building.

After a frustrated day because of no WiFi, today made up for it. The owner of yesterday's restaurant met me on the way here and insisted on giving me a ride so I'd have more time for sightseeing.

On arrival (14 mi. Total; only walked 4+ mi!), I stopped for a coffee / apple pie and asked an old timer to take a picture of me with tower in background. Turned out he was a POW captured by the Americans in'44 and sent to a prison in California! He couldn't remember the location. That encounter made both of our days--WOW! He was so delighted in meeting me, and I him.

Before leaving, I noticed that they have very few pickup trucks (our #1 vehicle)--they use almost exclusively baby trailers pulled behind cars. Here's a pic with both.

Had an easy flat day of just short of 8 miles. Met two pilgrims on bike who also have done the Camino (see pic)--they were from Bergen. Found the Kassner family that takes in pilgrims--nice house. I have my own room with two beds in it. Just one other pilgrim from Munich upstairs. Have chosen to have supper and tomorrow's breakfast with them. Fresh eggs from the "Chicken Mama" next door; and fresh butter and cheese from another farmer within stone's throw!

Visited their church and heard a rehearsal organ recital scheduled for tonight. Also visited the Gingerbread Museum that was once a gingerbread bakery but closed back in 1937. Great place to get insights into this trade--gingerbread baking is a dying art because it takes too long to store the prepared dough prior to baking: over a month!

Started the Via Regia today from Görlitz--how exciting for me! Had breakfast with a Berliner some 8 years younger and met him again coincidentally at the hostel in the evening--his first pilgrimage and backpack twice the size of mine. Headed out using both guide books and my indispensable PocketEarth (tracking app) and the excellent waymarking (See pics) on the paths that exceeded my expectations--every bit as good as on the Camino!

I reached the summit (938ft) after about 10 mi. and as usual for Europe, I found a great restaurant and met up with Hugo. He's enjoying a beer in front of the "mattress" rocks, a really neat rock formation. I've missed him!

After lunch only an hour to Arnsdorf. I headed straight for the church and next door found a very modern hostel (see pics). Across the courtyard from the hostel was the old barn since transformed into a movie and eating space for the pilgrims, as well as bed overflow. Only two of us!

(Can't seem to upload pics! But am trying again on 6 May.)

Wolfgang and Ria got me off on a 9:30 am train. Four hours on the road and I arrived at this precious city that was easy to navigate, especially with PocketEarth! Easily found my Albuerge-- a big place, but only two of us (I think). I'm now here at the official beginning of my walk at the foot of the old bridge in Görlitz that the Russians blew up when they retreated after WWII--it's also a hot spot! On the other side, I actually entered Poland and peaked at the usual border stuff like cigarettes. Saw my first Via Regia sign--they're all over. Can you see it at the bottom left of the one picture? From the bridge you can see St Peter and Paul's church--an impressive landmark  that's an icon of the city. People out everywhere--very touristy.

My last day with relatives was spent visiting castles, the very ones whose kings probably defended the Via Regia where I'll start walking on the 4th. The Rochlitz Castle was special in that it has the same family name as Bianca and Marcel!!!! Fantastic, very large museum there that we all enjoyed--and for the first time too. Note the pics.

And another treat were the many rapeseed fields in bright yellow. They're a member of the mustard family and used to produce cooking oil.

Today's national holiday for the workers was an occasion for showing off the latest weaponry in bygone communist days. Today, by contrast, was quiet--only the piles of witches fires still smoldered. Following a family dinner at Bianca and Marcel's, we drove through the countryside to see some unusual layered boulder formations, punctuated our outing with extravagant deserts and entered the Czech Republic a bit to tank up and do a little shopping. The pictures show a few highlights including the view from our "desert" restaurant into the Czech Republic.

In the late evening we watched "Let's Dance," the German version of "Dancing with the Stars"--point evaluations are much stricter here--not unusual to get 2s and 3s!

Went along with the family for their routines. As shown on the pictures, they included a stop at the beer store. Then we did something special: a visit to the Space Museum 24 mi away in the unlikely town of Morgenröthe-Rautenkranz where the first DDR (former East Germany) astronaut, Sigmund Jähn, was born in 1937. He made his flight in 1978. I'm standing in front of a European Space Agency Ariane 5, and Nico and Wolfgang are sitting in front of a MIR Simulator--all cool stuff!

Towards evening, we walked over to help celebrate the local Hexenfeuer (witches' fire--burning piles of wood to ward off the witches). The fire dpmt. sponsors the event: they raised the May pole (Nico's school is in background in picture); they guarded the fire; and kept people in line (lots of beer and food). Success: all witches disappeared.

The last 36 hours I spent immersing myself in the lives of Wolfgang and Ria, their daughter Bianca and Marcel, and their son Nico. The relation traces back to Wolfsng being a cousin on the maternal side of our daughters. On the 28th we got reacquainted and today we delved into some serious routines: taking Nico to his third grade class (see pic); getting Wolfgang's leased Volkswagen ready to trade in on a new model as part of a special employee's lease program (his 35th car)--see pics of old and new car; and visiting the local Horch Auto Museum (once the original Audi factory), Horch being one of the four Audi rings (the other three representing Audi, DKW, and the Wanderer).

After checking Nico's homework, we set out for the nearby Vogtland Arena, a winter and summer ski jump training venue. We took a ride up to the top for an added perspective. BTW, we saw remnants of snow that fell yesterday.

I begin walking in 5 days when rain is scheduled!! I'm ready!

My time here in northern Germany with our friends, James, Brigitte, and Heiner is fast drawing to a close. Despite the drizzle yesterday, we visited their local car show and I had to take a picture of an old Trabant (it harkens back to the DDR days--its cardboard body and other aspects are the brunt of many German jokes)-- check out the attached pic. For dinner, James prepared a Vienna Onion Roast--yummy!

Spent a splendid day with friends, Brigitte, James, and Heiner, first driving north to Nordstrand, Nordfriesenland, Germany to look at the North Sea--windy, drizzly, but a great matjes roll for lunch (one of my favorite fish: young immature marinated herring). It only got better with a visit to the Emil Nolde Museum. He was one of the first expressionists as a member of "Die Brücke." The picture of us in front of some of his works gives an idea of his style. For dinner--you guessed it--more matjes!

Spent two gorgeous days with the Kunzes, seeing the highlights of Rendsburg and enjoying their scrumptious meals and hospitality. The picture shows the old town hall, the suspended ferry over the East-west Canal, and scenes from tonight's dinner. What's missing is Hainer, their son who traveled some seven hours from Marburg to Rendsburg by train to surprise me---yes, train. The strike is over!!!! We'll catch a photo of him tomorrow. A real treat tonight was a DVD of a man with Parkinson's who made the Camino de Santiago--amazing feat!

Had a super first leg of the flight--a whole row on the plane to sleep on the way. At Heathrow I managed my way through the bus maze: where to catch it; where to buy an oyster (my multi-day ticket); where to get off; where's my hostel??? The picture says it all--you bet I'm intense. My backpack with four bottles in it was pretty heavy to have to schlepp it any further than necessary.....My adventure has started--I love it!